Great food bargains in Great Britain

by Rick Steves

In general, I found British portions huge. Rather than getting two appetizers, two main dishes and two desserts with wine for $70 each, a couple can order two appetizers, split a main dish, split a dessert and drink tap water. You'll probably fill up fine, enjoy the same atmosphere, and get out for $30 each. Don't be shy about sharing. I find waiters sympathize with budget travelers these days; they accommodate our cost-cutting measures with a smile.

Great budget values in any town are the cafes in the farmers' market -- where you can get baked beans with your breakfast all day long. Many churches have cafes where volunteers serve up soup and sandwiches for a price that's not particularly cheap -- but you know you're supporting a humble congregation's community work. Hungry sightseers appreciate the handy, moderately priced cafeterias they'll find in larger museums.

Good fish and chips joints are rare. In each town there seems to be one that is evangelical about grease and has won the undying allegiance of a passionate local following. To find them, look for one thing these winning "chippies" seem to have in common -- a guy behind the counter who's as greasy as the fish.

I don't like recommending chains, but some are just too fun to miss. Wagamama, a pan-Asian noodle slurp-a-thon, is everywhere now ... and just as great as the day its first location took Soho by storm. An Italian chain, Ask, nabs the grandest old dining hall in town and fills it with happy eaters enjoying pasta and pizzas at good prices.

English office workers like to get top-quality sandwiches for lunch. Follow their lead, skip the tired chain spots, and find a deli with a line of local professionals at the counter. At one deli, I just lingered on my stool, nibbling on my wonderful sandwich and sipping a glass of tap water, while watching all the yuppies swing by for their takeout meal.

For reasonably priced meals in a nice setting, take advantage of early-bird dinner specials at fancier restaurants, you'll eat well, but early (generally 5:30 to 7 p.m.).

For a splurge, I avoid the big, highly advertised formula places, and seek out quirky little 10-table restaurants that represent the creative vision of their owners. I am always impressed by the passion of the couples -- gay, straight, professional or romantic -- that run these establishments.

How do I find these special haunts? I rely heavily on the advice of B&B hosts, who have no vested interest in anything other than satisfied guests.