Showing posts with label Festivals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Festivals. Show all posts

2008/10/23

Tiny, charming island offers taste of pure Italy

The charm of Ventotene is apparent the moment you spot it from the boat transporting you to its shores. Sitting there like a lonely sponge cake protruding from the surface of a clear blue plate, the island's sheer size -- or lack thereof -- promises something not only special but personal.
Arriving on this tiny island off the west coast of Italy, you enter the port built into the side of the volcanic island by the ancient Romans and only recently developed and expanded to provide for heavier traffic. The fishermen's boats lining the harbor along with pizza and scuba shops give the island that quintessential small-town Italian feel.

To get to the center of the island, you walk the winding ramp to Piazza Castello, where the town hall sits. Grab a cappuccino at one of the two cafes there, which moonlight as restaurants during peak season from May to October. If caffeine doesn't satisfy you, grab a bottle of wine at one of the local alimentari and sit in the park right off the square for majestic views of the small uninhabited island of Santo Stefano (used to detain Mussolini's adversaries during his rule).

Part of the cluster of islands known as the Pontines, Ventotene -- which gets its name from the Italian word for wind, "vento" -- lies in the Tyrrhenian Sea just west of the mainland region of Campania.

It occupies less than a square mile, and its history dates to the Roman Empire, when emperors such as Augustus and Tiberius found the island's isolation perfect for banished troublemakers. During World War II, it was used as a listening post by a German garrison before being captured by the Allies in 1943.

The island also has a rich literary history. It is thought that Homer intended this to be the spot where Ulysses confronted the sirens during his long journey home. John Steinbeck wrote about the 1943 U.S. raid on Ventotene while he was a war correspondent for the New York Herald Tribune.

During the day, you can sunbathe at one of the three main beaches. Cala Nave is the preferred choice for its accessibility, black volcanic sand and rock outcroppings that make for ideal basking in the intense Mediterranean sun.

Ventotene has become a scuba diving destination because of its lush and mostly undisturbed aquatic life. There are several scuba-diving schools on the island, one of which was erected in the late '70s and is the oldest scuba academy in the whole of Italy. Private and group lessons start at 100 euros.

Ventotene's size makes it perfect for simply setting off and exploring. Walking is cheap, and traversing the bright landscape -- which often doubles as cliff's edge because of the island's narrow width -- is rewarding not only for its brilliantly colored vegetation but also for its panoramic views and lack of entry fee.

Lower on the island, discover the chiseled rocks pockmarked by saline (little crevices used to collect fresh salt water in ancient times) and the sea caves down by the port where transparent pools often act as windows into the astonishing marine life that surrounds the island.

If you're looking for something a little less nature-oriented, there are two museums. Villa Giulia -- which is less enclosed museum than outdoor relic -- is the ancient remains of a structure that housed/imprisoned Emperor Augustus' daughter, Giulia, who was exiled there for her promiscuity and immorality. The other is the Archeological Museum, which in its more standard presentation holds many artifacts that have been uncovered on the island over the years.

Unlike its more frantic (by Italian standards) and popular southern neighbors, Ischia and Capri, Ventotene has barely been touched by international tourism. The hotels are affordable, and the food isn't overpriced. Today, it's home to a year-round population of about 600. That number skyrockets during the summer months, especially in August, when it seems that every Italian heads to the seaside, or September, when the Festival of Saint Candice (Festa di Santa Candida) turns the island into one extended party.

Ventotene's real appeal isn't in its breathtaking 360-degree sea views, its clear, clean water or even its architecture and people. There are other places in Italy just as stunning. Its charm is in the sense you get that you're experiencing something not discovered by the tourists who flock en masse to the rest of Italy year-round. A sense you're among Italians.

Getting there: Ferries run from Naples and Formia

Dining: The island's restaurants keep visitors well-fed during peak season from May to October. Da Benito, with an unparalleled location literally inside the foot of a cliff, or Il Giardino, known for its lentils, are popular choices. The choices are more limited off season.

2008/10/17

Sun-splashed Miami on a budget

It might be notorious for its late-night party scene, swanky beach hotels with steeply priced drinks and the beachgoers who wear barely-there $300 swimsuits, but vacationing Miami-style doesn't have to cost a fortune.

From $3 beers to staying at a hostel for $34 a night to $7 bike rides along the Florida Everglades, visitors looking for deals have lots of options in the area.

Lodging

If you're adventurous and on a tight budget, consider staying in a hostel. Rooms can house anywhere between three and 14 travelers, sleeping on bunk beds, from $18 a night per person to about $40, depending on season and room size. Hostels in Miami Beach include Tropics Hotel & Hostel (1550 Collins Ave.), Jazz on South Beach Hostel (321 Collins Ave.), and South Beach Hostel (235 Washington Ave.).

For more conventional lodging, research your hotel at the one-stop shopping Web site http://www.miamihotels.com. Book a room while looking for nearby attractions, beaches and events.

Miami Beach

The Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is perfect for strolls and people-watching. You'll find dozens of restaurants and shops, along with locals walking dogs or weaving through the crowds on roller blades.

For a quick bite, check out Pizza Rustica (667 Lincoln Road, other locations on Washington Avenue), where you can get a huge slice of gourmet pizza for about $5. This is also a great spot for club-goers looking for something to fill their stomachs after a few drinks since it's open from 11 a.m. until 3 or 4 a.m.

At 625 Lincoln Road is a hidden gem popular with the locals. Snuggled between two stores is the narrow, tiny bar called Zeke's Roadhouse, which boasts more than 80 bottled beers and drafts from around the world -- each just $3. No hard alcohol is sold here, and no outside food or drinks are allowed on the premises. Keep your ID handy since bartenders check it with each purchase. No ID, no beer.

If you prefer to spend your time on the sand, the beach is walking distance (and free, unless you rent the pricey beach chairs). On your stroll, check out the Art Deco architecture and ritzy hotels. Or snap some pictures at the Casa Casuarina mansion where fashion designer Gianni Versace once lived, now a luxury hotel at 1116 Ocean Drive.

A drink at a trendy hotel bar on the beach -- the Delano, Setai, Shore Club, Gansevoort -- can cost up to $15, but you might just run into a celebrity. Owen Wilson was spotted at the Delano while filming "Marley & Me" with Jennifer Aniston. She reportedly spent time at the Mandarin Oriental.

Many restaurants in South Beach and other touristy areas automatically add a tip (usually 15-18 percent) to the bill.

Art and gardens

The Miami Art Museum (101 W. Flagler St.) has a unique collection of different cultural traditions of South Florida. Adults pay $8, seniors $4, free for children under 12 and students with ID; free to all on the second Saturday of each month. Also on second Saturdays, local galleries and studios in the Wynwood Art District offer free wine (or beer) on a gallery walk, 7-10 p.m. The Wynwood galleries are open other days as well.

A short cab ride away, in the heart of Miami about a mile from downtown, is Vizcaya Museum & Gardens (3251 S. Miami Ave.) built by agricultural industrialist James Deering in 1916. The landmark property includes a main house filled with treasures from around the world, a walkway lined with fountains and foliage, 10 acres of formal gardens and a hardwood hammock overlooking Biscayne Bay. Admission for adults is $12; children 6-12, $5; ages 5 and younger free.

Not far away, in the Miami suburb of Coral Gables, is the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden
(10901 Old Cutler Road) with an extensive collection of rare tropical plants. Stop by its verandah restaurant or garden cafe, or spend the afternoon drinking tea here. Adults pay $20; seniors $15; children 6-17, $10. Admission is pay as you wish on the first Wednesday of each month.

Entertainment and food

Transit Lounge in the downtown area (729 SW First Ave.) hosts several local bands during the week that play Latin and funk music. A drink is around $6; open late (5 a.m.). If you get tired of dancing, sit along the walls adorned with paintings done by local artists and play that favorite game from childhood, Connect Four.

Calle Ocho, or Eighth Street, hosts Viernes Culturales or Cultural Fridays the last Friday of every month. The art and street festival spans four blocks lined with more than a dozen galleries, restaurants blasting Latin music and cigar shops -- some offering free drinks and appetizers. Stages are set up for live music. Organizers say the Latin festival attracts over 10,000 people to the heart of Little Havana. Dancing and cigar smoking is encouraged.

While on Calle Ocho, don't miss the Cuban food and coffee at Little Havana's famed Versailles Restaurant (3555 SW Eighth St.) a required stop for vote-seeking politicians -- including, most recently, Republican presidential contenders Rudy Giuliani and Mike Huckabee.

Nature

The best way to see South Florida's alligator-infested waters is riding an airboat through the Everglades. Everglades Alligator Farm is about 35 miles south of Miami in Homestead, while Everglades Safari Park is about 15 miles west on the Tamiami Trail. Both places offer a chance to experience Florida's river of grass up close. You can even take a picture holding a baby alligator or watch an alligator show. The adventure, airboat and all, costs about $23 for adults, $15 or less for children. Both Web sites offer printable discount coupons.

Also in Homestead, Shark Valley Tram Tours rents bikes for $6.50 an hour. A 15-mile nature trail through the northern region of Everglades National Park takes two to three hours. If you'd rather rest your feet, a two-hour guided tram ride with wildlife viewing and a stop at the Shark Valley observation tower for a panoramic view of the Everglades costs $15.25 ($9.25 for ages 3-12). (Access to Shark Valley was limited in early October due to flooding, with tram tours suspended and bike routes limited, so check on conditions before you plan a trip there.)

The fee for car entry to Everglades National Park is $10, good for seven consecutive days, or $5 per person on foot, bike or motorcycle.

Transportation

Miami lacks comprehensive public transportation, but there are economical ways to get around. You can't miss the big blue Super Shuttle vans from the airport to the beach and Miami hotels, $20 plus tip. The Tri-Rail is a convenient, affordable way to navigate the region, with stops including area airports, Fort Lauderdale, Delray Beach, Boca Raton and West Palm Beach. One-way fares are $2-$5.50, all-day $4 weekend fare.

Taxis are widely available if you prefer not to rent a car. A ride from the airport to the beach can cost about $30-35.

2008/10/16

Copenhagen: A seasonal guide

Roskilde Festival (July)
The Danes love the outdoors and they love rock music; the Roskilde Festival is where they combine these passions for a weekend of drunken revelry.

The four-day event is held about 30 minutes from the city proper, which means you can either go in for the full festival experience -- smelly toilets and all -- by pitching a tent alongside 70,000 other party monsters, or you can fake it by staying in the city and commuting to the festival each day.

There are also day tickets if you don't have the stamina for the whole shebang.

Kulturnatten (October)
For something a little more high brow there's the Night of Culture. For one night only some 300 venues in the city stage theater performances, art exhibitions, concerts and poetry readings.

Copenhagen Jazz Festival (July)
A world away from the mud and moshing of Roskilde, the city's largest festival consists of more than 450 performances, many of them free, covering everything from hard bop to fusion. Goatees are optional.

Copenhagen Summerdance (August)
Each August some of the finest dance companies and choreographers in Scandinavia perform al fresco in the courtyard of the stately Copenhagen Police Headquarters. Dance enthusiasts should also try to catch the annual free outdoor performance given by the Royal Danish Ballet at the Kastellet fortification.

Father Christmas Congress (July)
One of the more bizarre fixtures in Copenhagen's calendar, the event is held in July -- presumably the slow season for Santas -- at the Bakken amusement park, some 20 minutes north of the city. The climax of the event is a procession of Santas from all over the world along Strøget, accompanied by their ever-faithful Christmas elves. Parents should be prepared for some awkward questions from the kids.

Tivoli Gardens (November/December)
These pleasure gardens make for a great day out any time of the year but to see them at their most bewitching, visit from mid-November through December, when they are transformed into a fairy tale of lanterns and Christmas markets. There's also outdoor skating, a Christmas cabaret and the very Danish 'Nissekøbing' village, home to more than 100 mechanical pixies. Hans Christian Andersen would have approved.

2008/10/11

Tokyo: Seasonal guide

Tokyo is a fantastic city at any time of year, but there are some annual events you won't want to miss. Here are some of the city's seasonal highlights.

Sumo (January, May and September)
To the untrained eye Sumo is just two fat men in loin cloths getting physical; in fact, Sumo is an immensely skilful sport that has been around for some 2,000 years and is steeped in Shinto mythology. Tokyo hosts 15-day tournaments ("honbasho") in January, May and September at Ryogoku Kokugikan stadium.

There's no chance of getting hold of a ringside tickets, but you can pick up a standing ticket for about ¥500 ($4.70). Same-day tickets can usually be bought for the first 10 days of the "honbasho" and you can also get advance tickets at the venue. Although you may be tempted to join the crowds in a spot of cushion throwing after a particularly exciting bout, bear in mind stadium authorities frown upon this kind of exuberance.

Hanami (late March to early May)
If you're lucky enough to be in Tokyo in the springtime, you may get to take part in the much-cherished Japanese tradition of "hanami" -- cherry blossom viewing. An annual blossom forecast tracks the appearance of the cherry blossom, which only lasts for a couple of weeks. When the "sakura" blooms, Tokyoites gather in Ueno Park for feasting, singing and general merriment. Nighttime "hanami" is known as "yozakura" and paper lanterns are hung in Ueno Park for the occasion.

Sanja Matsuri (third weekend of May)
The biggest and best of Tokyo's Shinto festivals is held at the Asakusa Shrine. Every year some two million people gather to watch as around 100 "mikoshi" -- portable Shinto shrines -- are paraded through the streets.

The three Senso-ji temple "mikoshi" weigh about a ton and are decorated in gold leaf and adorned with gold sculptures. They are paraded on the final day of the three-day festival, much to the delight of the assembled crowds, who jostle and shake them as they pass.

Kanda Matsuri and Sanno Matsuri are Tokyo's two other big Shinto festivals involving "mikoshi" parades and are held in alternating years. Kanda Matsuri is held at the Kanda Myojin Shrine on the weekend closest to May 15 and Sanno Matsuri is held between June 9 and 16 at the Hie-jinja Shrine.

Samba Matsuri
Asakusa is the place to be in late August if you want to see the ancient Japanese art of ...samba. Floats, bands and dancers parade down Kaminarimon-dori and and Umamichi-dori in one of the most fun, and occasionally surreal, samba carnivals you're ever likely to come across.

New Year's
The New Year period offers visitors a magical glimpse of traditional Tokyo. On December 23, the Emperor's birthday, and on January 2, the public is allowed into the grounds of the Imperial Palace, with the royal family greeting visitors from a distance.

On New Year's Eve, Tokyoites head to their neighborhood temples to hear the temple bells chime at midnight. The next day, it's customary to visit Buddhist and Shinto shrines to pray for good luck.

2008/10/01

Snap Guide: Tokyo

Japan's capital city vibrates with chaotic energy. Its neon signs hypnotize, and sidewalks are thick with pedestrians at all hours of the day. Crowded and constantly on the move, Tokyo is where old and new collide. It's not unusual to see centuries-old shrines abutting trendy designer boutiques and kimono-clad residents using the latest handheld technology. Behind all the city's shimmering glass skyscrapers lies majestic snow-capped Mount Fuji. These are just some of the reasons why we love Tokyo.

CITY LINKS

EVENTS

2008/09/11

London: Seasonal Guide

There's a never a dull moment in London -- the only problem is trying to keep up with it all... Here are some annual events you won't want to miss.

The Boat Race (March or April)

Every year teams of eight rowers from Oxford University and Cambridge University battle it out in a six-and-a-half km race along the Thames. Around a quarter of a million people line the banks of the river from the start line at Putney Bridge to the finish at Mortlake, to watch what has become a national institution.

Chelsea Flower Show (May)

If an Englishman's home is his castle then his garden is his kingdom. The British are slightly obsessed with their gardens and this event elevates horticulture to high culture, with show gardens becoming works of art.

The flower show attracts some 160,000 visitors each year to the grounds of the Royal Hospital in Chelsea, with displays that range from outlandish flights of floral fancy to more practical efforts that you can recreate in your own garden.

Notting Hill Carnival (August Bank Holiday)

Taking the stereotype of British reserve and dancing on its grave, while wearing a feather boa, the Notting Hill Carnival is a wild weekend of music, dancing and heaving crowds. Now more than 40 years old, this celebration of London's Caribbean community is said to be Europe's largest street festival. All the ingredients of a good street party are present in abundance: steel drums, sound systems, colorful floats, exotic costumes and spicy, spicy food.

The Proms (July - September)

Classical music aficionados shouldn't miss the eight-week summer season of daily performances officially known as the Henry Wood Promenade Concerts. Prestigious venues such as the Royal Albert Hall and Cadogan Hall host more than 70 main concerts and various other events.

A feature of the Proms is bargain "Promming tickets" for performances at the Royal Albert Hall, which allow spectators to stand directly in front of the orchestra or high up in the gallery. 1,400 of these tickets are available for each performance and 500 of those can be bought on the day for only £5 each. On the last night of the season the Proms go to Hyde Park for an al fresco finale.

Trooping the Colour (June)

This centuries-old tradition shows the pomp and ceremony of the British monarchy in its full splendor. The parade is in honor of the Queen's official birthday and is held at Horse Guards Parade, with spectators lining the route along the Mall. There are rousing brass bands, foot guards and cavalry in full regalia, and lashings of splendid pageantry as the Queen performs her annual inspection of her troops.

Music festivals

London hosts a number of music festivals that have become highlights of the events calendar, among them Meltdown, which is held over nine days at venues including the Royal Festival Hall and the Southbank Centre. Each year the festival has a different "celebratory curator", which have in the past included the likes of David Bowie, Morrissey, Nick Cave and Massive Attack, ensuring a diverse range of cutting-edge performers.

The O2 Wireless Festival is held in Hyde Park and features an array of mainstream and alternative artists. Taking place in June or July it's a great way to sample a music festival atmosphere without having to leave the city.

Get Loaded in the Park is a one-day event on Clapham Common, which is also the venue for the South West Four one-day dance music extravaganza, and Lovebox is an annual festival that has yet to find a fixed address.