Showing posts with label Budget Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budget Travel. Show all posts

2008/11/03

Sparkling Cape Town easy on a budget

One of the world's most beautiful cities is probably one of the cheapest.

Cape Town, the sparkling jewel in South Africa's tourist crown, regularly wins international travel awards. It combines excellent infrastructure and hotels with magnificent beaches, wildlife and winelands, making it a favorite among business conventions and wealthy surf and safari seekers.

But even for those on a budget, the so-called Mother City is as welcoming as its name. Best news is the weakness of the South African rand, which make dollars and euros go further.

Getting there

Only a few airlines fly straight to Cape Town, so direct flights from London are full and discount fares rare. Delta flies from New York via Senegal. Emirates via Dubai often has bargains. In addition to South African Airways, budget airlines like 1Time and Kulula Air fly from Johannesburg into Cape Town. (Don't panic if Kulula staff announce the plane has landed in Zimbabwe -- they love joking).

The airport tourism information desk arranges bus shuttles to the city at $12 per person and less for subsequent passengers. The Backpacker bus charges $15 and its Web site has good tips on travel and accommodation. Or ask your hotel or guesthouse to meet you. Metered taxis are expensive and there is no regular bus or train service to the city center. If you are renting a car, shop around for deals for foreigners.

Getting around

Cape Town lacks a decent public transport system. It's worth hiring a car at least for a day or two. Most hotels and hostels offer peninsular and wineland tours. Some take bikes along with them.

Minibus taxis are used by locals and will give you a cheap, genuine taste of South Africa. But they are not for the fainthearted, despite efforts by the government to persuade minibus drivers to upgrade their vehicles and respect basic rules of the road. For a more predictable alternative, the Explorer double-decker open-topped bus has a hop-on, hop-off system, with the red line serving the city and the blue line surrounding areas at a cost of $20 per adult for a universal 24-hour pass. You can walk around most parts of central Cape Town without fear of crime during the day, unlike Johannesburg and Durban. But at night take a taxi, even for short distances.

What to see

Table Mountain

This is Cape Town's icon. You can hike up or down (a steep 1.8 miles on the Platteklip Gorge trail) but check at the information booth on conditions (strong winds are common). The return trip by cable car costs $14.50, with discounts for children and students and sometimes in early morning and evening. Operating times depend on season and weather. Be prepared to wait at busy periods.

A wonderful alternative to Table Mountain lies just across the road. Signal Hill has no lines, no hassle, no fees. Just uninterrupted 360-degree views of the city from the winding road. Join the locals at full moon and walk up and down the mountain (about 90 minutes each way) for an unforgettable experience. Remember, there is safety in numbers.

Robben Island

The wind-swept island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned is a must. The trip takes 3 1/2 hours and costs $15 (children half-price). Book well in advance as it's hugely popular. Also, for just $1.50, visit the District Six Museum, which highlights the injustice of the apartheid era and the forced relocations of nonwhites from the vibrant city center to dismal Cape Flats townships, which are still home to the majority of the population. (Robben Island will be closed the first two weeks of November while authorities remove an infestation of rabbits.)

Waterfront

The harbor and shopping complex is home to pricey hotels and boutiques. But you can soak up the sea air and enjoy live entertainment for free. There are restaurants and fast food joints for all budgets. Or pick up a picnic at the Pick 'N Pay supermarket. The world-class aquarium is fab for both kids and adults.

Beaches

The powder-white sand of Camps Bay and Clifton are the places to chill -- and literally freeze in the Antarctic-influenced currents, even on scorching days. For swimming, the saltwater, open-air pool in Sea Point costs next to nothing and is in a breathtaking location on the beach, with a huge grass area for sunbathing. Weekends are packed but weekdays often empty (unless you coincide with a school outing, which adds to the fun). Take your own padlock for the lockers.

For less frigid waters, head to Fish Hoek and Muizenberg on the other side of the peninsula, which is warmed by the Indian Ocean currents. Muizenberg is a hotspot for surfers. Take time to chat with shark-spotters positioned on the beach and an overlooking hill to sound the alarm about occasional Great White visitors. (If you really want a close encounter, try shark cage-diving in Gansbaaii, a couple of hours drive away with transport offered from the Waterfront.)

Side trips

A Cape Peninsular tour is a full-day highlight either with an organized group or (better) on your own. Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are the best-known attractions. Beware the baboons who aggressively search for food. (We once watched a hapless tourist getting out of his car for photos as a baboon jumped into the driver's seat next to the man's hysterical wife!!)

Next to Cape Point, an ostrich farm offers guided tours, but you can also watch the mighty birds for free.

Farther down the road toward the naval base of Simons Town, you can swim with penguins at Boulders Beach, which boasts a thriving colony of endangered African penguins. It's magical, and the birds are unfazed by humans.

Watch fishermen at work in the beautiful harbors of Kalk Bay and on the other side of the peninsula, Hout Bay. Hout Bay also offers 45-minute trips (about $4) to smelly but spectacular Seal Island, home to thousands of seals. World of Birds, also in Hout Bay, is great value for the money and popular with families. It also has giant tortoises, wallabies and squirrel monkeys (tourists are allowed into their enclosure twice a day).

Chapman's Peak leading out of Hout Bay is one of the world's most scenic roads but is currently closed following rockfalls. You can go halfway up to the picnic spots and, between August and November, feast your eyes for free on southern right whales. (Hermanus, the main center for whale-watching, is about two hours out of Cape Town).

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens are much loved among locals for their Sunday evening summer concerts. Take a picnic and get there early.

Dining out

By international standards, restaurants are cheap in South Africa. It's easy to have a slap-up dinner for around $10. Fish is superb -- try the firm juicy kingklip -- and fish 'n chips on the seafront is hard to beat. Local cuisine includes Cape Malay curries and bobotie (a dish with minced meat). You rarely pay more than $1.50 for a coffee and there are great, cheap local beers and wines.

Unlike other African countries, the water is safe and most restaurants happily supply a big jug of free tap water. Even the Waterfront has cheap options with pizzas, wraps, kebabs and noodles. There are plenty of eateries in Long Street -- the nightlife center -- in the trendy Waterkant district and along the Camps Bay beach. For unrivaled views at affordable prices, book a table in the Ritz hotel's revolving restaurant in Sea Point. Even if you are trying to save money, don't skimp on the customary 10 percent tip as waiters rely heavily on it to supplement their minimal wages.

Sleeping in

At the Waterfront, the Breakwater Lodge -- a former prison -- is the cheapest option. There's an abundance of reasonably priced guest houses and B&Bs in central locations like Gardens, Tamberskloef, Sea Point and Green Point. Prices vary with the season but it's easy to find a double room with private bathroom for less than $100 -- often much less -- and some establishments offer self-catering.

The official Cape Town Web site has listings but doesn't provide links or prices. So try http://www.capestay.co.za. There's plenty of choice in vibey hostels offering clean dormitory as well as private accommodation at even lower prices than guesthouses. These include Long Street Backpackers and Cat & Moose on Long Street. Quieter but also central are the recommended The Backpack and the lovely Ashanti Lodge. In the suburb of Observatory, popular with students, is the Green Elephant. There are also many choices in Cape Town's surrounding areas like Kalk Bay, Hout Bay and the lovely university town of Stellenbosch in the winelands.

When to go

Spring (September to November) offers a floral feast in the Table Mountain national park. Mid-January to April is also a great time to visit. Mid-December to mid-January it seems as if half the country descends upon Cape Town and it gets packed and pricey. Avoid June to August unless you like wind and rain - but even then there are glorious sunny days as well as cut prices.

2008/10/17

Copenhagen: A local's view

Tim, 33, is a Canadian who moved to Copenhagen in 2000 to study at Copenhagen Business School. He has been working full-time in Copenhagen since 2004, currently as a journalist for a bank. He also produces "The Copenhagen Report", a blog about the city.

- Copenhagen was recently voted the world's best city to live in -- what's your opinion?

It's absolutely true! Of course, it's somewhat subjective. For somebody who puts a high value on surrounding themselves with friends and colleagues who generally have a very outward, international perspective, desires a high degree of organization in both their business and personal life, likes being close to the sea, prefers biking to driving, and perhaps has one or two children but still wants to live in the city, then the high ranking of Copenhagen makes perfect sense.

- Is there anything you especially like or dislike about Copenhagen?

As a northern city, it's a bit too cold and cloudy for my preference and the city is a bit quiet during the first part of the week, which changes from Thursday onwards.

As for the positives, Copenhagen is generally a very liberal place, which reveals itself in interesting ways. It's not a politically correct city, which is a relief to me. I don't mind a bit of graffiti from time to time or hearing a bit of noise on the streets at night. I love that people can have noisy parties until very late into the night. People generally respect this freedom by not abusing it.

The city has an enormous capacity to surprise. Copenhagen stages exceptional annual music festivals, such as the Distortion Festival, and excellent independent film festivals, public events like free cinema in the park in the summer, and so on.

- How would you describe Copenhageners' attitude to life?

I would say Danes' ability and willingness to socialize is probably quite underrated. It's not something that is visible at first glance as it's often done in a distinctly Danish way. Some think that just because Danes aren't Latin or Mediterranean in their way of being that they are closed people. I would disagree.

Copenhageners manage to find a balance between their personal and work lives and they know how to make the city part of their life -- how to 'use' the city. Go around the city on a hot summer day to get an idea of how this works.

- The political climate in Denmark has moved to the right in recent years -- is that something that's noticeable in Copenhagen?

If a person spent several years in Denmark without really reading the newspapers or listening to the news, I have my doubts that this shift is something that would be easy to detect.

In many respects, Copenhagen has opened up, in spite of this apparent political shift to the right. There are far more foreigners working in Copenhagen than ever before, a result of more and more companies employing foreigners and even making their official business language English.

The right-wing definition of 'Danishness' is something that relatively few Copenhageners can relate to and voting patterns in Copenhagen bear this out. It's really the right-wingers who need to be integrated into Danish society.

- Could you describe a typical Copenhagener's weekend?

The weather has an enormous impact, far more so than in many other cities in other countries. One reason is the short shopping hours; on Saturday afternoons downtown shops close at 5 p.m. and the other shops close at 2 p.m. Shops are closed all day on Sundays, except on the first Sunday of the month.

On Sunday, if the weather is cloudy, rainy or cold, the possibilities for getting out are limited during the day. Of course, Sunday brunch at a café is popular.

In the evening it's a different story. Copenhagen is buzzing until the early hours of the morning. You can get a drink at plenty of places until 5 a.m. and even then there are a few after-hours places to go to. Not that I would necessarily recommend the after-hours experience!

Just as many people light candles, invite friends over and talk and drink until equally late.

- It's a pricey city -- is it possible to visit on a budget?

It's not impossible. Of course, the better the weather, the easier it is. The main budget-killers for tourists are eating and sleeping. To do this cheaply, creativity is required (and probably sleeping in a hostel).

It's easy to cover Copenhagen on foot (if you don't want to rent a bike). The famous Danish open-faced sandwiches ("smørrebrød") are cheap and widely available -- just be sure to pick one of the nondescript places where the locals go. And you can always buy a cheap cold beer or two from a supermarket when you get tired of walking, then sit in Nyhavn alongside the tourists drinking expensive beers, or in a park.

Alternatively, dark and dingy Danish bodegas are found everywhere in the city and they are an authentic experience and always serve cheap beer. They are filled with down-to-earth locals who, in spite of the cold stare you may receive upon entering, will inevitably prove friendly. When you're stumbling home, grab a cheap late-night "poelser" (hot dog) or falafel, just as the locals do.

There are plenty of interesting sites to see without opening your wallet. My recommendations would be Christiania, the swimming area at Islands Brygge (where you can take a dip in the cool, clean salt-water of the Copenhagen channel), or rent a bike and head north along the coast towards the beaches in Klampenborg and beyond, while looking at the magnificent houses along the way.

And for the cost of a cheap public transport ticket you can ride the harbor boat-bus around the entire channel and see the same sites as the tourist boats (and even hop off and on along the way).

- If Copenhagen was a person, what would she or he be like?

A hipster with a few tattoos -- no question about it! And they would be the coolest person in the place. London or Paris (as people) would certainly think they were coolest and they would most certainly try to act it.

But that moment when they were standing outside trying to hail a cab to get home (probably around midnight or 1 a.m.), as Copenhagen cycled by them with friends on the way to the next watering hole -- well, the façade of London or Paris as 'coolest' would be revealed for what it is.

2008/09/24

Seattle on the cheap: Urban adventure awaits

Home to Microsoft and Starbucks, grunge rock and a constant rainy drizzle, Seattle is defined by the collision of urban soul and natural beauty. It's also a great destination for the budget-conscious traveler. An abundance of outdoor activities and a pulsing arts community make it the perfect place to visit while holding onto spare change.

Nightlife and dining

For best bets on live shows and music, snag a copy of The Stranger, Seattle's free alternative weekly, to find out who's playing where. If you're looking for a quieter evening, pack dessert and head to Gas Works Park, in Wallingford, or Kerry Park, on Queen Anne Hill, for stunning views of the city skyline.

Few things go together better than penny-pinching and happy hour, so look for deals around the city for fantastic food and cheap cocktails. Foodies will want to check out Brasa (2107 Third Ave.), in Belltown, which rocks 5 p.m.-7 p.m. with specials that include half-off bar menu items like steak frites with cabrales butter for $7 or a lamb burger for $5.50. Don't leave without trying the trademark sundae for $4.

Another classy spot is Barolo (1940 Westlake Ave.), in Westlake, where stellar deals include a $14 bottle of wine, $3 pints and a rotating bar menu that features organic buffalo burgers for $5 and a pound of sauteed mussels for $5.50 from 3 p.m.-6:30 p.m. and 10 p.m. to close. Closer to the water, Elliott's Oyster House, on Pier 56, has a special that kicks off at 3 p.m., with oysters for just 50 cents each, six bucks for a dozen. Prices increase 20 cents every half hour, so get there early to save the most clams.

Other hot spots are easily found at Seattle Happy Hour Guide. The site gives you the lowdown on more than 200 bars in the city.

For cheap eats at all hours of the day, stick to Seattle staples like Dick's Drive In, an old-school burger joint with five locations, or Ezell's, with three locations in Seattle, to gobble up some of Oprah's favorite fried chicken. Salmon lovers should check out Ballard Brothers Seafood and Burgers (5305 Fifteenth Ave., NW), where the house specialty, a Cajun-style blackened salmon sandwich is just $7.

Must-sees

You can't make it to the Emerald City and not visit Pike Place Market, the heart of downtown and one of the nation's original farmers markets. Home to the original Starbucks, world-famous flying fish and a maze of fresh produce, crafts and street performers, it's free and a great way to spend the afternoon.

When you've had your fill, wander up Elliott Avenue to the Olympic Sculpture Park, a nine-acre waterfront site nestled on the shoreline with towering, permanent sculptures by some of contemporary art's hottest artists.

Then, visit Ballard and the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, where boats rise and fall as they move between the sound and the inland waterways and salmon run through a fish ladder.

If you feel like window-shopping, wander through Pioneer Square's locally owned stores, such as Elliott Bay Book Company (101 S. Main St.), a 25,000-square-foot tribute to literacy.

For a little cash and some fancy footwork, you might just forget you're on a budget. Good options include the Pacific Northwest Ballet, where gallery floor seats are just $25, or for the younger crowd, use a college ID to get into the Seattle Symphony for just $10.

For standard fare, you'll want to visit the Experience Music Project, an interactive and historic tribute to rock, the Seattle Aquarium, Woodland Park Zoo and get on a boat tour in the Puget Sound. To see these sights and more, your best bet is to plunk down $44 per adult and $29 per kid and let CityPass hook you up with a nine-day all-access pass.

Urban adventure

Look past the Space Needle to views of the soaring Olympic mountain range and Puget Sound. If you're itching to get out in a boat, look to the Northwest Outdoor Center to put you on a kayak for just $13; the UW Waterfront Activities Center (206-543-9433) for canoes and rowboats, at just $7.50; or the Center for Wooden Boats on Lake Union for sailing at just $15. Keep an eye out for special events: NOC offers sporadic Paddle Seattle kayak tours at sunset and moonrise, and the Center for Wooden Boats has free Sunday afternoon sails.

If the weather cooperates, head to West Seattle, where Alki Beach is the place to be for jogging, rollerbladding, volleyball or a walk along the water. Look to Wheel Fun Rentals, to rent you a tandem bike for $12. In Ballard, Golden Gardens is a great place to watch the sun set over the Olympics and roast marshmallows over a bonfire.

In Green Lake, you'll find windsurfing, swimming and a heavily-used running trail with loads of people out to picnic and play.

Getting around

Buses in Seattle are cheap, just $1.50, or $1.75 during peak hours. If you're looking to see the sights, hop on a ferry down at the docks, where $7.50 will get you a half-hour cruise to Bainbridge Island, where a more laid-back vibe awaits.

2008/09/15

33 Sweet Spots for Fall

Autumn is often the best time to beat the crowds and score vacation savings — choosing where to go is the hard part.

In life, being in the right place at the right time can come down to serendipity, but in travel, it is almost always the result of good planning. To avoid crowds and inflated prices, we recommend the period between high and low seasons when the weather is fine, places are still open and happy to welcome travelers, and you can explore a destination at your own pace. We call this magical time and space continuum the Sweet Spot and make it a point to round up the best of them for you each season. We've covered the 40 best places to go this fall and grouped them by region.

Africa

Fall Forecast: Across northern Africa, fall's cooler weather moderates the region’s typically desert-like climate, making a paddle down the Nile or a hike in the Atlas Mountains an attractive proposition. The safari season is winding down in southern Africa as the rainy season begins in late October.

1. EGYPT

The ancient history and romantic fables of the Pyramids of Giza and the Nile River have lured visitors to Egypt for centuries. The arid climate, hospitable people, and ongoing archeological discoveries keep the curious coming back for more.

Why Go In Fall: Hotels offer more reasonable rates and temperatures can be bearable during these transitional months. In Cairo, temperatures average in the 80s and fewer tourists spell shorter lines. Avoid Ramadan (exact dates vary) — during this 40-day Muslim festival many shops, restaurants, and sites are closed.

2. TUNISIA

Blessed with a sunny climate, miles of Mediterranean beaches, Saharan oases, ancient walled cities and superb Roman-era archaeological sites, Tunisia — just 93 miles south of Sicily — offers visitors both modern resort facilities and easy access to its rich historical legacy.

Why Go In Fall: Visitors to the northern African city of Carthage are met with temperate weather, perfect for strolls among remarkable Roman ruins. This is also the best time to journey south along the Sahara. The sun shines most of the time, the sea is generally warm enough for a dip, and prices are below their summer highs.

Asia & Middle East

Fall Forecast: Having been thoroughly saturated by summer monsoons, India is radiant in the fall, and a majority of tourists plan their visits accordingly. Rain and humidity haven’t loosened their grasp on the rest of Southeast Asia though, which is bursting at the seams with exotic orchids and off -season deals.Fall colors and clear skies make for an ideal mid-autumn stroll through some of Japan’s many traditional gardens. In the Middle East, temperatures can be moderately tolerable in the Gulf, but it comes down to luck. Hotel and air rates are generally lower at this time.

3. OSAKA

A vast, modern city, Osaka is the gateway to many of Japan’s most important tourist sites, including Kyoto, Nara, and Mount Koya. The city reflects its people: outgoing, food-loving, shopping enthusiasts, and business-oriented.

Why Go In Fall: Autumn is a great time to visit Osaka as prices, not to mention humidity and temperatures, go down (though September is the peak season for typhoons).

4. SEOUL

If cities have personalities, Seoul is a type-A, on steroids. An insatiable appetite for money, a chaotic "me-first" street life, and a hurry-hurry approach to everything makes visiting the South Korean capital an entertaining, if occasionally jolting, adventure.

Why Go In Fall: Technically the “off” season, fall weather is much nicer, colored leaves abound, and hotel discounts abound. Warning: during Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) roads and airports teem with travelers.

5. UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Comprised of seven states, the UAE is rapidly transforming the Middle East by pulling focus away from distressing regional conflicts and emphasizing commerce and tourism. Unassuming Abu Dhabi, capital of the UAE, is one of the region’s hidden gems with its sense of tradition, clear blue skies, year-round sunshine, and laidback lifestyle, while Dubai has emerged as the center of all things glamorous, replete with the world’s first “seven-star” hotel.

Why Go In Fall: Wedged in between the sweltering summer and the popular winter, fall visitors take advantage of Ramadan holiday discounts, filling hotels and attractions. It’s the best time to visit cities like Abu Dhabi, when temperatures average in the 90s and the skies are a perfect blue. Note that Ramadan, which generally begins mid-September or early October, can be uncomfortable for non-observant travelers as it is illegal to drink, smoke, or eat in public until the “break fast” (iftar) ceremony. Some restaurants operate during the day behind curtains or tinted windows.

Australia & Pacific

Fall Forecast: Pack a light jacket for a cooler-than-usual experience Down Under, but save on pre-peak airfare and miss out on the crowds during the southern hemisphere’s spring; temperatures in the mid-60s are comfortable, even if they don’t exactly provide for beach-going weather. September and October are one of the most beautiful times to visit springtime New Zealand. Get to Tahiti before cyclone season begins in late November.

6. MELBOURNE

Australia’s second largest city, Melbourne has long lived in the shadow of glitzy Sydney. But scratch the surface and you’ll discover a delightfully decadent city that exudes soul and sophistication. From the finest galleries and museums, innovative theatre, and wonderful Victorian architecture to top sports venues, leafy parks, and accessible beaches, Victoria’s capital city is a smorgasbord for the senses.

Why Go In Fall: The best time to visit Melbourne is during their spring (September to November). Days tend to be clearer and the extremes of heat and cold are kept at bay, as are high room rates. Fall sees the city’s parks turn various shades of amber and makes its mark with the horse race that stops the nation — the Melbourne Cup (held the first Tuesday in November).

7. NEW ZEALAND

For a small island nation, New Zealand sure packs a lot of punch — particularly in the scenery department. Blessed with unique and varied geography, it compensates for its relatively short human history with outdoorsy, adrenaline-pumping thrills. Its biggest and most cosmopolitan city, Auckland, is blessed by beautiful geography — two magnificent harbors, an island-studded gulf, and the intriguing remnants of fifty volcanoes.

Why Go In Fall: Spring in New Zealand, particularly the South Island, brings a gleeful palette of flowers and fresh meadow grass. Prices in popular winter resorts like Queenstown have dipped nicely, although pesky random snowfalls can occur throughout September. Temperatures are moderate and you're likely to strike some showery days, but the sun is bound to make an appearance. Don’t plan on swimming during these months.

8. SYDNEY

Think San Francisco and Rio de Janeiro mixed in with a heaping dose of small-town Aussie flavor. Sydney's distinctly individual appeal lies in its fantastic oceanside setting, laid-back attitude, stellar beaches, beautiful people, and eternally sunny subtropical climate.

Why Go In Fall: With its temperate subtropical climate Sydney is popular practically year-round, but fall sees slightly fewer visitors than high season. Temperatures average in the mid-60s.

9. TAHITI

Tahiti, with its breathtaking blue-green water, sparkling white-sand beaches, and charming overwater bungalows, is one of French Polynesia's intoxicating 118 islands and atolls that are spread out over an area the size of Western Europe.

Why Go In Fall: The month of November falls between the high (dry) and low (wet) seasons on the island, and makes for a rare window of good weather, smaller crowds, and better hotel rates.

Caribbean & Mexico

Fall Forecast: As hurricane season begins, northern Caribbean hot spots will be battening down the hatches until late November. Look farther south to Aruba or west to the Pacific Coast of Mexico for more reliable beach weather, often at a discount.

10. ACAPULCO

One of the Mexican Riviera's most fabled hotspots, Acapulco is deeply ingrained in the sun seeker's subconscious as a pilgrimage-worthy destination. Some say the resort has had its heyday, but like a fallen celeb pushing back into the spotlight, the "Queen of Mexican Beach Resorts" is having a comeback. Come to enjoy nonstop nightlife, striking beaches, and reasonably-priced vacation packages at revamped hotels and resorts along the Pacific coast.

Why Go In Fall: You'll get the best bang for your buck on hotel rates in November, just following the rainy and humid season, when the landscapes are lush and the crowds are few.

11. ARUBA

Aruba’s allure is obvious: Iridescent waters loaded with sunken wrecks, sugary beaches along its shores, and a remarkably arid outback to draw visitors inland. Add to this its pleasant year-long weather, cooling trade winds, and easy flight times and it’s easy to see why Aruba is one of the most popular Caribbean destinations.

Why Go In Fall: You’ll get the best bang for your buck booking a package in early fall, when the weather remains glorious and pre- and post-season crowds are non-existent.

12. BARBADOS

Pear-shaped Barbados, long popular with fishermen and royalty, offers glittering beaches, equally sparkling resorts, and striking seascapes lined with hulking boulders and cave-strewn cliffs. From afternoon tea and cricket to landscaped gardens and preserved Victorian architecture, the island’s English heritage remains pronounced.

Why Go In Fall: While hurricanes disrupt the western waters of the Caribbean, this southeastern island remains relatively calm, with average daytime temperatures in the 80s and cooler nights. Rent a staffed beachfront villa at savings of up to 40 percent.

13. CURACAO

Sophisticated Curacao offers visitors a unique taste of cosmopolitan Dutch living in a Caribbean setting. The stunning capital, Willemstad, evokes 17th-century Amsterdam, but adds brilliant colors to its gingerbread roofs and wedding-cake trims; the lot is so remarkable that it's earned a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. With some 55 different cultures living here, you're more likely to find international cuisine and culture of the sort you'd expect of New York.

Why Go In Fall: Well below the hurricane belt, this tiny remote Caribbean island dodges the devastating storms that plague the rest of the Caribbean. However, the island does experience its rainy reason after October, but rains fall mostly in the evenings.

14. PUERTO VALLARTA

Flanked by jungle-covered slopes and fronted by the Bay of Banderas, colorful Puerto Vallarta — PV to the locals — has a romantic past ("Night of the Iguana" by Tennessee Williams was filmed here) and a reputation as one of Mexico’s most fabled resort towns. This enchanting colonial town fronting beautiful Pacific Coast beaches is an easy and affordable escape.

Why Go In Fall: To get the most for your money, and fewer crowds to boot, we recommend visiting in October. Weather is pleasant (high 70s to low 80s), establishments are open, and discounts are available at most hotels.

Central & South America

Fall Forecast: South America’s spring is ambiguous, blending indecisive rains and fluctuating temperatures with little consistency. Nevertheless, the Brazilian Amazon beckons to those who like their rain forests drier than usual, and Chilean skiers savor their final runs as diminishing winter snows give way to Patagonian hiking bliss. Avoid Central America travel, with the rainy and hurricane season well underway.

15. ARGENTINA

Home to tango, gauchos, and fútbol aficionados galore, Argentina rewards travelers to the Southern Cone with stunning scenery, sophisticated cities, and epicurean delights, all at surprising values. A sexy Latin vibe permeates the architecturally handsome Buenos Aires, South America's answer to Paris.

Why Go In Fall: Fall is a lovely time to visit larger cities like the flourishing Argentine capital at Buenos Aires, with reasonable hotel rates all across the city. In seasonal tourism areas, expect fewer crowds due to diminished opportunities for activities like skiing.

16. BRAZIL

Boasting wonders as diverse as the Amazonian rainforest, Iguazu Falls (on the border with Argentina), the beaches of Bahia, and sultry Rio, Brazil is both geographically stunning and culturally fascinating. This melting pot of European and African immigrants and indigenous South Americans is the birthplace of Bossa Nova, caipirinhas, and the samba, not to mention the world’s wildest Carnaval celebration.

Why Go In Fall: October and November bring temperate spring weather and fewer tourists in the cities. In the Amazon, the best time for fishing is during the last months of the dry season, generally September and October, when water levels are lower. Expect thinner crowds and temperatures in the 70s and 80s at Iguazu Falls.

17. CHILE

This skinny slice of South America will surprise the unsuspecting with its flourishing capital at Santiago, quaint villages, and striking geographic extremes — deserts, rainforests, glacial peaks — full of natural beauty and outdoor adventure opportunities (including the tail end of the ski season).

Why Go In Fall: Pleasant temperatures and lighter tourist crowds make September and October an ideal time to embark on the lake district and central regions. Note that November is the start of high season across the country.

18. ECUADOR

Ecuador’s fascinating interior has long been overshadowed by the Galápagos Islands, with their attention-hogging archipelago. While package tours there threaten Darwin’s muses, the mainland has been humbly readying itself for the ball. With the revitalized colonial capital of Quito and distinctive retreats in the Amazon and the Andes, not to mention the Inca ruins of Ingapirca, it promises not to stay under the radar for long.

Why Go In Fall: In between the worst of the rainy season and the crowds of the dry season (September to November), you’ll find reasonable weather and great deals in Quito, the highlands, and along the coast.

Europe

Fall Forecast: Each autumn, this continent takes a collective breath as swarms of summer tourists return home, leaving only the wisest of the bunch to partake in fringe-season price reductions, more moderate temperatures, and pre-winter festivals. The coasts of Spain, Italy, and Greece are still churning out beach weather at bargain rates. In Eastern Europe, days can be chilly, but the off-peak rates help compensate. Transatlantic airfare typically falls between 25 and 40 percent below its summer high.

19. BALEARIC ISLANDS

This Spanish island chain includes Ibiza, which since the ‘60s has been attracting the hip and the trendy, from flower children dancing beneath the stars and sleeping on the beaches to the young elite of London, Berlin, and Milan mobbing the top discos and staying at chic, boutique hotels. Majorca (also spelled Mallorca), meanwhile, has long been a favored year-round destination for northern Europeans seeking sun and sea.

Why Go In Fall: Unless you’re looking to party hearty, you’ll get the most for your money in fall. The weather is warm and usually sunny (temps average about 70 degrees), and the islands practically crowd-free.

20. BELGIUM

With Dutch-influenced Flanders to the north and French-flaired Wallonia to the south, Belgium is a unique blend of languages and cultures brimming with historic charm, haute couture, and heavenly cuisine — including its world-famous mussels, fries, waffles, chocolate, and beer. Brussels is noted for its friendly folk, incredible edibles, and position as political capital of modern Europe, while Flemish-flavored Antwerp has come into its own as a center for fashion, art, and nightlife.

Why Go In Fall: While sometimes overcast and/or rainy, Belgium’s fall days are generally mild, travel costs run lower than in summer, and manageable crowds make for optimum visiting.

21. BERLIN

Reminders of this once-divided city’s turbulent history coexist with ultra-modern glass and steel skyscrapers and reinvented urban centers. Packed with cultural treasures, hip clubs, cutting-edge dining options, and no less than three opera houses, Berlin is the Continent’s first true 21st-century metropolis.

Why Go In Fall: While late autumn can be cold, September and early October is usually marked by mild temperatures and an added bonus of colorful foliage. Package deals abound, while crowds and lines at attractions are refreshingly few.

22. CROATIA

Croatia’s tourism board touts its stunning coast and 1,000+ islands as “the Mediterranean as it once was” and, save some overdeveloped areas, it really is. Paired with little-explored inland regions and an affordable, non-euro-based economy, this delightful Eastern European country is one of Europe’s hottest destinations. Dubrovnik boasts stunning seaside fortifications, a Mediterranean beach vibe, fresh seafood, and immaculate offshore islands.

Why Go In Fall: In early fall, Dubrovnik sits comfortably in the 80s, with surrounding beaches gloriously empty and the water temps in the 70s through late October. Hotels offer good shoulder-season rates — just go before the northeastern “bura” wind whips up in November.

23. GREEK ISLANDS

Greece has some 6,000 islands and islets, of which only 227 are inhabited. The seven island groups — the Ionian, Argo-Saronic, Cyclades, Dodecanese, Sporades and Evvia, Northeast Aegean, and Crete — are marked by ancient monuments and ruins, beautiful scenery, and lively beach resorts.

Why Go In Fall: Unless nightlife is your goal, this is the best time to visit. Temps averaging about 70 degrees are reasonable, the sea is warm enough for swimming through September, and the beaches are not overcrowded. Hotels, restaurants, and cultural attractions are open, yet devoid of crowds.

24. ITALY

The land of art, sun, and a thousand different types of pasta, Italy is packed with a variety of sights, sounds, and tastes that can keep even the most experienced traveler busy for months. Considering one can hop between the timeworn ruins of ancient Rome, the Renaissance glories of Florence, and the fashion-forward emporiums of Milan, the question really isn’t where to go, it’s which century to "visit."

Why Go In Fall: It’s by far the best time to go to Italy for value, weather, and crowd control. Throughout the country you’ll experience wine festivals and skip out on the oppressive heat and mobs that mark the high summer season. The Mediterranean remains warm into early fall for beach-goers along the Italian Riviera. Autumn foliage adds a scenic touch to Italian lake areas.

25. MONTENEGRO

This little gem of a country on the southern Adriatic Sea — just coming into its own after the turbulent breakup of the former Yugoslavia — boasts an interior of soaring Alpine mountains, plus 200 miles of coastline. Tiny Montenegro is an exhilarating destination for lovers of the great outdoors, with four national parks and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The medieval fortress city of Kotor, on the lip of southern Europe’s largest fjord, is a picturesque home base for coastal and mountain day trips.

Why Go In Fall: Beach season lingers through October and temperatures hover around the mid-60s. With more elbow room than during the summer, autumn is an ideal time to explore the region’s churches and ruins. Hotels, restaurants, and cultural attractions are open, yet not overrun.

26. ROMANIA

Romania has come a long way since 1989, when the people gave their iron-fisted dictator, Nicolae Ceausescu, the boot. Today, ask anyone and they’ll tell you that Romania is on the rise: the outdoor cafés are buzzing, the restaurants are serving creatively prepared local cuisine as well as global fusion dishes, and recognizable shops like Hugo Boss and Escada are sprouting up. Of course, historic Romania maintains its appeal as well; give a nod to the fictitious Count Dracula as you submerge yourself in cobblestone streets, castles, and monasteries.

Why Go In Fall: Reasonable temperatures, fewer crowds, and better hotel deals make fall the best time to explore Romania’s major points of interest. The folklore of Count Dracula can make Transylvania a particularly appealing destination during Halloween, when special tours celebrate Bram Stoker's famous novel.

United States & Canada

Fall Forecast: Fall nudges the northern part of the U.S. and most of southern Canada into their climactic foliage-filled primes. It’s the Atlantic’s hurricane season, leaving Florida relatively empty of visitors (unless El Niño manages to keep away hurricanes and tropical storms) but teeming with deals. Out West, hot, dry Santa Ana winds and the harvest season mark the beginning of fall, while many Western ski resorts offer pre-Christmas deals in November. Early cold spells in November can put a damper on Canadian and northern U.S. travel.

27. ATLANTA

Like the blossoms that brighten this Southern belle's landscape every spring, Atlanta is a perennial rejuvenator, infusing her classic charm with modern style and welcoming visitors to her unique blend of history, dining, shopping, and adventure. Its grade-A Southern hospitality, historical roots (MLK was born here), modern-day attractions, and up-and-coming art scene are the city's major draws.

Why Go In Fall: With the summer heat gone, fall in Atlanta makes for enjoyable sightseeing, while the build up to the holiday season brings in throngs of shoppers from across the South.

28. CAPE COD, NANTUCKET & MARTHA'S VINEYARD

Visitors flock to Cape Cod and its neighboring islands for its quaint villages, hundreds of miles of beaches, clam shacks, and, of course, "sand dunes and salty air." This charming New England region draws family and East Coast weekenders.

Why Go In Fall: As the summer crowds retreat, this quintessential slice of New England becomes much easier to navigate. Empty expanses of sand and mild, perfect-for-a-walk-on-the-beach temperatures pervade. Take advantage of historic B&Bs that offer rooms at half off in October.

29. COLORADO

Colorado’s storied past as a territory of the Wild West is still evident in its mining towns, rustic dude ranches, Rocky Mountain switchbacks, and pioneer tradition. There is, however, more to the state than awe-inspiring mountain landscapes and cow herders. It’s also a land of thriving cosmopolitan towns like Denver, luxurious ski resorts, and outdoor adventures like hiking, skiing, and rafting.

Why Go In Fall: Fall weather is pleasant for sightseeing in Denver and accompanied by blazing fall foliage in the surrounding mountains. By November, the slopes are just beginning to open, and ski resorts often tout promotional packages that precede the holidays.

30. DISNEYLAND

Inaugurated under the Southern California sun in the summer of 1955, The Happiest Place on Earth is still the country’s premier family destination. Head here for the sunshine and to please the kids (or the kid inside)...nothing makes ‘em smile like Mickey and the gang.

Why Go In Fall: With the season kicking off a back-to-school frenzy, weekday visits pretty much ensure that you’ll walk on to most rides with little or no lines. Special Halloween events add to the festive atmosphere.

31. THE HAMPTONS

Fifty miles of seashore with powder-fine sand, secluded bays, and colonial villages make The Hamptons a playground for beach lovers, glamour seekers, culture hounds, and the rich and famous. Dabble in Hollywood-esque glitz and glamour along the shore at pricey luxe hotels and reservations-required restaurants.

Why Go In Fall: Early fall weather, usually a balmy 60 degrees, is still warm enough for swimming, making the hotel discounts a real bargain. Beaches are nearly empty as families are city-bound for the school year.

32. HAWAII

Few places satisfy the urge for a carefree tropical vacation like the islands of Hawaii. Indeed, the 50th state’s stunning beauty is no secret — nowhere else in the U.S. boasts the combination of white-sand beaches, lush green landscapes, pounding surf, and rich culture of these far-flung Pacific islands. But what’s less well known, especially for first-time visitors, is that there’s a lot more to the state than Oahu’s Waikiki Beach. In fact, of the eight islands in Hawaii, six are primed for tourists, each with different reasons to visit, from ecotourism and active volcanoes to beaches and nightlife.

Why Go In Fall: You’ll find less people (and more available accommodations) before the holiday rush. Powerful northern swells hit the islands in October, so it’s the perfect season for surfing. Long days offer extra sunshine to catch that one last wave of the day or extend a romantic sunset stroll into evening. Approaching winter rains temper Hawaii’s otherwise oppressive summer humidity, and rooms are up to 30 percent less than peak-season rates.

33. LAS VEGAS

Las Vegas celebrated its centennial in 2005 — not that it needed an excuse to party. “Sin City,” “Lost Wages,” “The City That Never Sleeps” — call it what you will — this Nevada desert city will awe you from the moment you fly over its glittering expanse to the day you leave. But believe it or not, there's more to Las Vegas than debauchery, including a world-class restaurant scene and fantastic shopping.

Why Go In Fall: Barring no special events, you’ll get the best bang for your buck by visiting in October and early November, months that offer mild temperatures and generally better rates.

2008/09/06

Big Apple Fun on a budget

You don't need big bucks to enjoy the Big Apple big time. Travel like a New Yorker on the subway. Eat like a New Yorker on the street. And see the city like a New Yorker by visiting public spaces, landmarks and famous places, many of which can be enjoyed for free. Here are some strategies.

Getting around

Subway fare is $2. A MetroCard with unlimited rides on subways and buses is $7.50 for the day or $25 for seven days.

Famous places

Stroll the serpentine paths of Central Park on your own or take a free walking tour from the Central Park Conservancy. Carousel rides are $2. For $8, you can hang out with polar bears and penguins at the zoo.

At Fifth Avenue and 50th Street is Rockefeller Center. The elegant art deco skyscrapers, Channel Gardens and statues of Prometheus and Atlas are worth seeing in person, no matter how many times you've seen them on TV.

Grand Central Terminal, at 42nd Street and Park Avenue, is worth a visit too. Spend a few minutes inside gazing at the arches, cathedral windows and ceiling that make the place so grand.

Head west on 42nd Street to Times Square, but wait until after dark to fully appreciate the neon lights. Don't worry -- the place is packed, even at night. You'll be perfectly safe.

Take the No. 1 train to the South Ferry stop and hop on the Staten Island ferry. It's free and offers fantastic views of the Statue of Liberty and city skyline, not to mention the manmade waterfalls on the East River, in place through October 13.

Free ferries to Governors Island also offer waterfall views with boats Friday, Saturday and Sunday through October 12.

Another way to see the city from the water is by kayak. The Downtown Boathouse offers free kayaking weekends through October 13 on the Hudson River on the city's West Side.

For a thrilling view of Lower Manhattan's urban canyons and skyscrapers, walk across the Brooklyn Bridge.

Entertainment

Whether your taste runs to David Letterman, Stephen Colbert or Maury Povich, if your favorite TV show is filmed in New York, you may be able to see it live for free.

A few Broadway shows hold nightly lotteries for cheap front-row tickets ($21.50 for "Avenue Q," $26.50 for "In The Heights," check Web sites for details). It's a great deal if your plans are flexible. Or try the TKTS booth in the Marriott Marquis Hotel, West 46th Street between Broadway and Eighth Avenue, which sells tickets at up to 50 percent off for that night's performance at many Broadway and off-Broadway shows.

Many city parks host free shows in the summer, but they mostly end in August. In September and October, though, parades and street fairs abound. The West Indian-American Day Parade is a massive carnival-style pageant every Labor Day along Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn. Look for politicians and other celebrities in the Columbus Day Parade along Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, 44th to 79th streets, noon-3 p.m. The Feast of San Gennaro street festival takes place on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, September 11-21.

Museums

Most museums have some free hours. Arrive early and be prepared for crowds. (What, you thought you were the only one on a budget?)

The Museum of Modern Art, 53rd Street and Fifth Avenue, hosts free Fridays, 4 p.m.-8 p.m.
The Whitney Museum of American Art, Madison and 75th Street, has "pay what you wish" admission Fridays, 6 p.m.-9 p.m. The Brooklyn Museum (Eastern Parkway/Brooklyn Museum stop on the No. 2 or 3 train) has free admission the first Saturday night of each month except September, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. The arts-and-entertainment event draws huge crowds, from young hipsters to families to older folks.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fifth Avenue and 82nd Street, always has a "suggested admission" of $20, which means that no, you really don't have to pay the full amount. Don't be embarrassed; New Yorkers on a budget do it all the time. (One of my high school teachers famously sent us off to the museum with this advice: "A polite quarter will do!")

In Lower Manhattan, the National Museum of the American Indian is always free. Its thought-provoking exhibits include ancient artifacts; masterpieces of pottery, basketry, apparel and other objects; and contemporary art. The museum is housed at One Bowling Green in the former U.S. Customs House, an architecturally stunning 1907 Beaux Arts building.

Food

For breakfast, a bagel with cream cheese is the real deal. (Don't you dare put jam on that bagel!) And don't ask how many calories it is; just know that you won't be hungry for hours. In many parts of the city, corner coffee carts sell decent java, pastries and donuts for about $1.

A cheap lunch might be a hot dog from a cart, a slice from a pizzeria or a sandwich to go from a deli. Also popular are "halal" grill carts selling falafel, chicken in pita and other Middle Eastern fare for $5 or less.

Supermarkets often sell whole cooked rotisserie chickens to go for under $10. Add a loaf of Italian bread, a readymade salad, and find a park for a picnic for two.

Dessert for two: Split the six-for-$9 selection of truffles and pralines at Max Brenner's, 141 Second Ave. at Ninth Street.

Neighborhoods

Spend an afternoon exploring. Take the No. 7 train to Jackson Heights and soak up the sounds, sights and smells of the Latin and Asian shops and restaurants. Walk across 125th Street in Harlem. Wander around the Lower East Side, where bargain stores still sell housedresses on racks, but trendy bars and cafes are encroaching on the old neighborhood. Don't forget Coney Island, last stop on the D, F, or Q trains to Brooklyn. If you're tempted by laughter, screams and music from the amusement park, a ride on the Wonder Wheel is $6 while the Cyclone roller coaster is $8. Stroll the boardwalk or wade in the ocean for free.

Big Apple Greeter offers free, personalized tours led by volunteers who love sharing their inside knowledge of the city. Request the neighborhood of your choice or let them surprise you with an authentic corner of the city you might otherwise never see. Reserve three to four weeks ahead.

Accommodations

If you don't have a friend or relative to stay with, the Pod Hotel, 230 E. 51st St., has some rooms under $200. Or pretend that Sunday is the new Friday, and book a Sunday-Monday stay through NYC Sunday Stays at with room rates 20-30 percent off, free breakfasts and other deals.

2008/09/05

Bargain London? If you know where to look

God save the queen, and maybe a few pounds -- sterling, that is.

London may have a deserved reputation for being royally expensive, but by taking advantage of the free museums and sights in the historic capital, tourists won't necessarily leave town feeling like paupers.

Museums: Most of London's major museums are free. The British Museum, the Science Museum, the Victoria & Albert and other state-supported museums have free admission every day. They get crowded as the day goes on, so try to go early. And keep those free museums in mind when you need a restroom.

Sights: If you want to experience the workings of Parliament, you can sit in on debates for free. For a taste of true parliamentary banter, go to the prime minister's Question Time, which takes place Wednesdays when Parliament is in session. Only U.K. residents can get advance tickets, so be prepared to wait in line.

To get an up-close look at the Tower of London without paying the $30 admission, go to the Ceremony of the Keys. You won't be able to go inside the tower, but you'll be part of the 700-year-old tradition of locking up each night. You need to submit a written request for tickets two to three months in advance.

Parks: When you need a break from all the sightseeing, try venturing north of the central city to Hampstead Heath. The 791-acre park has ponds, trails and ample space for a picnic on Parliament Hill, which offers great views of London's skyline.

Or head to Speakers' Corner at Hyde Park, located at Park Lane and Cumberland Gate, across from the Marble Arch Tube stop. The corner is a gathering place for people to speak their minds on politics, religion and everything else. Go on Sunday.

Theater: London is known for its drama but tickets for West End shows can cost over $100. To go on the cheap, purchase tickets on the day of the show at the half-price ticket booth in Leicester Square.

Take in some Shakespeare at the Globe, where standing tickets will cost about $10. You'll get to experience the play as a groundling -- as they were called in Shakespeare's day -- and have the performance take place around you. But come prepared: You'll be standing for the whole play -- usually around three hours -- and you'll be exposed to the weather (and rain) at this open air theater.

If Shakespeare's not your scene, check out the Royal Court Theatre, a two-theater venue dedicated to producing new plays. All tickets on Mondays are about $20. For theatergoers under 27, $10 tickets are available every day for plays in the downstairs theater.

Food: Pop into a pub for a meal and a pint. You'll get to enjoy some iconic British grub -- fish and chips, meat pies and puddings -- at a reasonable price.

And if there's a pricey restaurant you have your heart set on, go for lunch when prices are lower.

Getting around: The cheapest way to travel is by foot and the sights and museums are generally nearby. But if you need to travel farther take the Tube -- London's subway system -- or hop on a bus for a more scenic journey.

The No. 11 bus goes to Westminster Abbey, Parliament, Trafalgar Square and St. Paul's Cathedral. The No. 9 will take you to Hyde Park, Harrod's and Piccadilly Circus.

To save money buy an Oyster card -- an electronic card that serves as your ticket. You get reduced fares for a single trip -- down to about $3 from $8 for a Tube trip within the central city and $1.80 instead of $4 for a bus ride.

Accommodation: Budget hotels are clustered near train stations, especially Paddington, Victoria, Euston and King's Cross. The Earl's Court neighborhood is another option. Book early.

If you're traveling when the universities are on break -- roughly mid-June through September -- you can rent a room in one of their dorms. The University of Westminster has single rooms in the central city starting at about $70 a night, with reduced rates for travelers under 27. King's College has single rooms with ensuite bathrooms for around the same price.