Five Ways to Make Dining in Tokyo a Little Less Frustrating

1. Get good advice . . .

Tokyo isn't set up like other cities. The name on an address refers to the general area rather than a specific street. Plus, the numbers on two neighboring buildings aren't necessarily in numerical order. Also confusing is the fact that the metro system has recently changed its naming rules; now each station goes by a combination of a letter and number (e.g., E06 and A12), instead of a name. For the time being, they're using both. Having access to a concierge who can print detailed street maps with landmarks and directions (in Japanese for taxi drivers) might be worth the price of staying at a hotel with a good concierge.

2. . . . in two languages

Ask your concierge for restaurants' names in romaji (western letters) and Japanese characters--you never know how the name will be written on the facade.

3. Accept the fact that you'll end up lost

It's inevitable. Luckily, Tokyo is safe and endlessly walkable, and its residents are always happy to help you find your way.

4. When in doubt, search out visual cues

Most often, an English menu is a tell-tale sign that a restaurant is a tourist trap. There are better methods to know what you're eating--and to make sure it's good. Start by going places where you can see the food, such as kaiten-zushi, rotating sushi bars. A gathering of office workers patiently waiting in line is a mark of quality (not necessarily the case in other cities). And red lanterns indicate that a restaurant is an izakaya, a Japanese-style pub with casual food.

5. And don't overlook convenience stores

Found all around Tokyo, convenience stores are utterly fascinating (for starters, many have cash registers that show weather reports). They are also stocked with all sorts of tasty items, such as French pastries and odd buns, which in a pinch make a fine fast lunch. You may scoff, but you'll end up there. Trust me.

Snap Guide: Tokyo

Japan's capital city vibrates with chaotic energy. Its neon signs hypnotize, and sidewalks are thick with pedestrians at all hours of the day. Crowded and constantly on the move, Tokyo is where old and new collide. It's not unusual to see centuries-old shrines abutting trendy designer boutiques and kimono-clad residents using the latest handheld technology. Behind all the city's shimmering glass skyscrapers lies majestic snow-capped Mount Fuji. These are just some of the reasons why we love Tokyo.

CITY LINKS

• Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO)
• Tokyo Tourism Website
• Yes! Tokyo
• Welcome Inn Reservation Center Online booking for accommodation under 8,000 yen per night
• Toei Transportation Information Online Metro map (PDF)
• Japan Rail (JR) Lines Guide maps for major train stations
• Japan Rail (JR) Lines Greater Tokyo map of all rail lines and stations (PDF)
• Hyperdia Searchable train routes, times, and prices
• Tokyo Food Page Guide to eating and drinking in Japan
• Snow Japan Winter sports guide & online community
• Japan Today Japanese news and discussions
• Metropolis Popular weekly magazine
• The Japan Times Daily newspaper

EVENTS

• Emperor's New Year Greetings at the Imperial Palace January 2
• New Year Grand Sumo Tournament January
• Hari Kuyo Festival for broken pins and needles, Senso-ji, Asakusa, February
• Tokyo International Anime Fair March
• Cherry Blossom Viewing late March-early April
• Kawasaki Daishi Kanamara Penis Festival April
• Asakusa Sanja Festival, Senso-ji, Asakusa, 3rd weekend in May
• Great Japan Beer Festival, June
• Tokyo International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival July
• Sumida River Fireworks late July
• Asakusa Samba Carnival (Japanese-only website), late August
• Tokyo Game Show September
• Tokyo International Film Festival October
• Tokyo Motor Show, late October-early November
• Tokyo Design Festa November

Chic, Affordable Tokyo Cafes

The two major misconceptions about dining in Tokyo: There's nothing but Japanese food, and it all costs a fortune. Aoyama, home to many luxury boutiques, is a place where you're likely to want a quick, cheap bite.

Conveniently, the neighborhood has a number of stylish cafés serving good, simple food.

Caffè @ Idée

The Idée brand of interior design is a Tokyo institution, and the flagship Aoyama shop houses a café serving a substantial menu of sandwiches, pastas, and more. Minami-Aoyama 6-1-16-3F

Café Les Jeux

Most drinks are a bit pricey--but it's worth trying one to sample some unusual uses of coffee. One of the most creative is the Sourire Glacé ("iced smile"): Milk is poured over crushed ice cubes made out of coffee ($5.50). Minami-Aoyama 5-9-5-2F

Café Crépuscule

Even without a café on the premises, the NADiff shop located off Omotesando would be worth a visit. Its carefully curated art books, magazines, CDs, and accessories are a joy to browse while sipping one of Crépuscule's many Belgian beers. Jingu-mae 4-9-8-B1F

Café Plus Minus Zero

The ultrachic Plus Minus Zero brand of accessories and electronics was started a few years ago by toymaker Takara, in conjunction with designer Naoto Fukasawa. Behind the Aoyama shop is a minimalist café, with a pretty patio. Kita-Aoyama 3-12-12

Dragonfly Café

Follow the sign pointing up to the second floor, past the cow statue (indicating a branch of Cow Books). The seating arrangements divide the small café into a couple of distinct spaces: a large communal table with a funky green top, two quiet side rooms, and a terrace with a view of the surrounding greenery. Minami-Aoyama 3-13-14-2F

Office

The name takes a cue from the furniture--desks, tables, and chairs that would be equally at home in a conference room. But make no mistake: This evening-only option (it opens at 5 p.m.) is a surprisingly relaxing place to hang out and flip through style/design magazines. Kita-Aoyama 2-7-18-5F

Eating a Bento Box Lunch at Ueno Metro Staion, Tokyo

Amanda Barden Stradling, 25, right, an Ameri-Corps volunteer from Provo, Utah, with her visiting sister, Katherine Barden. Ms. Barden Stradling was in Tokyo for three months accompanying her husband (not pictured), a diplomatic intern. “We had just gotten back from Ueno Park, where they have all these temples to explore, and we were hungry so we wanted to grab some lunch. We knew we were going to have to wait for the train, so we just broke out these bento boxes. I later found out that it was kind of a faux pas to eat in the Metro. The man in the suit leaned over and said something to me, and I just smiled at him and he smiled back, so he was probably asking me how my lunch was; I had no idea. But that was a cool thing about Tokyo — the people were so nice because they knew I had no idea what was going on.”