Copenhagen: Where to Eat

At last count, Copenhagen's restaurants boasted 12 Michelin stars between them, more than anywhere else in Scandinavia.

Noma (Strandgade 93) is unique in that it can claim two of those stars. From a converted waterfront warehouse, chef Rebe Redzepi offers a modern take on Nordic cuisine, scouring Scandinavia for ingredients such as langoustines from the Faeroe Islands, wild salmon from Iceland and musk ox from Greenland -- fantastic served with glazed beetroots, apple and smoked marrow.

Geranium (Kronprinsessegade 13), in the beautiful gardens of Kongens Have, has earned a Michelin star for its biodynamic, organic cuisine, including some imaginative vegetarian dishes -- try the new carrots with elderflower vinegar, sago and white chocolate.

Le Sommelier (Bredgade 63-65) has more than 800 wines and a famous crème brûlée with geranium ice cream, while Café Victor (Ny Østergade 8) is a hip bistro that draws an artsy crowd and the occasional visiting celebrity. It also boasts a fine selection of spirits.

Vegans will find unfussy fare at Den Grønne Kælder (Pilestaede 48) and Restaurant Flow (Gyldenløvesgade 10) dishes up organic vegetarian food in a relaxed setting.

Danes drink more coffee per person than any other nationality, so perhaps it's not so surprising that they have won the world barista championship four times in the last eight years. Klaus Thomsen was 2006 champion and he runs Estate Coffee (Dronning Olgas Vej 30), which slow roasts its own blends, as does Café Europa (Amagertorv 1), run by 2001 champion Martin Hildebrandt.

Café Stelling (Gammel Torv 6) looks stunning with its Arne Jacobsen chairs, tables, bar stools and lamps, while multi-taskers will enjoy Laundromat Café (Elmegade 15), where you can grab a coffee, wash your clothes, and browse through the 4,000 used books that are on sale there.

No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without sampling the Danes' favourite snack, "smørrebrød." The classic 'open sandwich' consists of dense, dark brown rye bread finished with toppings that might include smoked salmon, herring, cheese, egg or shrimp. You can choose from 200 varieties at Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70). The Royal Café (Amagertorv 6) offers a more refined take on the open sandwich, served in sushi-sized portions and eaten in suitably regal surroundings.

Like the Danes themselves, Copenhagen's nightlife is generally relaxed, although not without its surprises.

There's currently a trend for 'hybrid' establishments that are cafés by day, but morph into bars or restaurants in the evening, and feature a dancefloor-filling DJ when night falls. The sophisticated Aura (Rådhusstræde 4) is a restaurant in the week and cocktail bar on Friday and Saturday nights.

Pussy Galore's Flying Circus (Sankt Hans Torv 30) is the epitome of Danish minimalism -- sleek, stylish and flawlessly decked out in Arne Jacobsen furnishings. The breakfasts are good, the brunches are famous and the mojitos are even better, making it an excellent place to start the day or to kick start the night.

While Carlsberg may be Copenhagen's best-known contribution to the noble art of brewing, the city is also home to a handful of micro breweries. Still, if you're determined to stick with the Carlsberg, be sure to try it at Vinstue 90 (Gammel Kongevej 90). Ask for a slow beer and you'll have to wait 15 minutes for a meticulously pulled draft Carlsberg with a huge creamy head; but with fewer bubbles and bags of flavor it's well worth the wait.