Sparkling Cape Town easy on a budget

One of the world's most beautiful cities is probably one of the cheapest.

Cape Town, the sparkling jewel in South Africa's tourist crown, regularly wins international travel awards. It combines excellent infrastructure and hotels with magnificent beaches, wildlife and winelands, making it a favorite among business conventions and wealthy surf and safari seekers.

But even for those on a budget, the so-called Mother City is as welcoming as its name. Best news is the weakness of the South African rand, which make dollars and euros go further.

Getting there

Only a few airlines fly straight to Cape Town, so direct flights from London are full and discount fares rare. Delta flies from New York via Senegal. Emirates via Dubai often has bargains. In addition to South African Airways, budget airlines like 1Time and Kulula Air fly from Johannesburg into Cape Town. (Don't panic if Kulula staff announce the plane has landed in Zimbabwe -- they love joking).

The airport tourism information desk arranges bus shuttles to the city at $12 per person and less for subsequent passengers. The Backpacker bus charges $15 and its Web site has good tips on travel and accommodation. Or ask your hotel or guesthouse to meet you. Metered taxis are expensive and there is no regular bus or train service to the city center. If you are renting a car, shop around for deals for foreigners.

Getting around

Cape Town lacks a decent public transport system. It's worth hiring a car at least for a day or two. Most hotels and hostels offer peninsular and wineland tours. Some take bikes along with them.

Minibus taxis are used by locals and will give you a cheap, genuine taste of South Africa. But they are not for the fainthearted, despite efforts by the government to persuade minibus drivers to upgrade their vehicles and respect basic rules of the road. For a more predictable alternative, the Explorer double-decker open-topped bus has a hop-on, hop-off system, with the red line serving the city and the blue line surrounding areas at a cost of $20 per adult for a universal 24-hour pass. You can walk around most parts of central Cape Town without fear of crime during the day, unlike Johannesburg and Durban. But at night take a taxi, even for short distances.

What to see

Table Mountain

This is Cape Town's icon. You can hike up or down (a steep 1.8 miles on the Platteklip Gorge trail) but check at the information booth on conditions (strong winds are common). The return trip by cable car costs $14.50, with discounts for children and students and sometimes in early morning and evening. Operating times depend on season and weather. Be prepared to wait at busy periods.

A wonderful alternative to Table Mountain lies just across the road. Signal Hill has no lines, no hassle, no fees. Just uninterrupted 360-degree views of the city from the winding road. Join the locals at full moon and walk up and down the mountain (about 90 minutes each way) for an unforgettable experience. Remember, there is safety in numbers.

Robben Island

The wind-swept island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned is a must. The trip takes 3 1/2 hours and costs $15 (children half-price). Book well in advance as it's hugely popular. Also, for just $1.50, visit the District Six Museum, which highlights the injustice of the apartheid era and the forced relocations of nonwhites from the vibrant city center to dismal Cape Flats townships, which are still home to the majority of the population. (Robben Island will be closed the first two weeks of November while authorities remove an infestation of rabbits.)

Waterfront

The harbor and shopping complex is home to pricey hotels and boutiques. But you can soak up the sea air and enjoy live entertainment for free. There are restaurants and fast food joints for all budgets. Or pick up a picnic at the Pick 'N Pay supermarket. The world-class aquarium is fab for both kids and adults.

Beaches

The powder-white sand of Camps Bay and Clifton are the places to chill -- and literally freeze in the Antarctic-influenced currents, even on scorching days. For swimming, the saltwater, open-air pool in Sea Point costs next to nothing and is in a breathtaking location on the beach, with a huge grass area for sunbathing. Weekends are packed but weekdays often empty (unless you coincide with a school outing, which adds to the fun). Take your own padlock for the lockers.

For less frigid waters, head to Fish Hoek and Muizenberg on the other side of the peninsula, which is warmed by the Indian Ocean currents. Muizenberg is a hotspot for surfers. Take time to chat with shark-spotters positioned on the beach and an overlooking hill to sound the alarm about occasional Great White visitors. (If you really want a close encounter, try shark cage-diving in Gansbaaii, a couple of hours drive away with transport offered from the Waterfront.)

Side trips

A Cape Peninsular tour is a full-day highlight either with an organized group or (better) on your own. Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope are the best-known attractions. Beware the baboons who aggressively search for food. (We once watched a hapless tourist getting out of his car for photos as a baboon jumped into the driver's seat next to the man's hysterical wife!!)

Next to Cape Point, an ostrich farm offers guided tours, but you can also watch the mighty birds for free.

Farther down the road toward the naval base of Simons Town, you can swim with penguins at Boulders Beach, which boasts a thriving colony of endangered African penguins. It's magical, and the birds are unfazed by humans.

Watch fishermen at work in the beautiful harbors of Kalk Bay and on the other side of the peninsula, Hout Bay. Hout Bay also offers 45-minute trips (about $4) to smelly but spectacular Seal Island, home to thousands of seals. World of Birds, also in Hout Bay, is great value for the money and popular with families. It also has giant tortoises, wallabies and squirrel monkeys (tourists are allowed into their enclosure twice a day).

Chapman's Peak leading out of Hout Bay is one of the world's most scenic roads but is currently closed following rockfalls. You can go halfway up to the picnic spots and, between August and November, feast your eyes for free on southern right whales. (Hermanus, the main center for whale-watching, is about two hours out of Cape Town).

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens are much loved among locals for their Sunday evening summer concerts. Take a picnic and get there early.

Dining out

By international standards, restaurants are cheap in South Africa. It's easy to have a slap-up dinner for around $10. Fish is superb -- try the firm juicy kingklip -- and fish 'n chips on the seafront is hard to beat. Local cuisine includes Cape Malay curries and bobotie (a dish with minced meat). You rarely pay more than $1.50 for a coffee and there are great, cheap local beers and wines.

Unlike other African countries, the water is safe and most restaurants happily supply a big jug of free tap water. Even the Waterfront has cheap options with pizzas, wraps, kebabs and noodles. There are plenty of eateries in Long Street -- the nightlife center -- in the trendy Waterkant district and along the Camps Bay beach. For unrivaled views at affordable prices, book a table in the Ritz hotel's revolving restaurant in Sea Point. Even if you are trying to save money, don't skimp on the customary 10 percent tip as waiters rely heavily on it to supplement their minimal wages.

Sleeping in

At the Waterfront, the Breakwater Lodge -- a former prison -- is the cheapest option. There's an abundance of reasonably priced guest houses and B&Bs in central locations like Gardens, Tamberskloef, Sea Point and Green Point. Prices vary with the season but it's easy to find a double room with private bathroom for less than $100 -- often much less -- and some establishments offer self-catering.

The official Cape Town Web site has listings but doesn't provide links or prices. So try http://www.capestay.co.za. There's plenty of choice in vibey hostels offering clean dormitory as well as private accommodation at even lower prices than guesthouses. These include Long Street Backpackers and Cat & Moose on Long Street. Quieter but also central are the recommended The Backpack and the lovely Ashanti Lodge. In the suburb of Observatory, popular with students, is the Green Elephant. There are also many choices in Cape Town's surrounding areas like Kalk Bay, Hout Bay and the lovely university town of Stellenbosch in the winelands.

When to go

Spring (September to November) offers a floral feast in the Table Mountain national park. Mid-January to April is also a great time to visit. Mid-December to mid-January it seems as if half the country descends upon Cape Town and it gets packed and pricey. Avoid June to August unless you like wind and rain - but even then there are glorious sunny days as well as cut prices.

Tiny, charming island offers taste of pure Italy

The charm of Ventotene is apparent the moment you spot it from the boat transporting you to its shores. Sitting there like a lonely sponge cake protruding from the surface of a clear blue plate, the island's sheer size -- or lack thereof -- promises something not only special but personal.
Arriving on this tiny island off the west coast of Italy, you enter the port built into the side of the volcanic island by the ancient Romans and only recently developed and expanded to provide for heavier traffic. The fishermen's boats lining the harbor along with pizza and scuba shops give the island that quintessential small-town Italian feel.

To get to the center of the island, you walk the winding ramp to Piazza Castello, where the town hall sits. Grab a cappuccino at one of the two cafes there, which moonlight as restaurants during peak season from May to October. If caffeine doesn't satisfy you, grab a bottle of wine at one of the local alimentari and sit in the park right off the square for majestic views of the small uninhabited island of Santo Stefano (used to detain Mussolini's adversaries during his rule).

Part of the cluster of islands known as the Pontines, Ventotene -- which gets its name from the Italian word for wind, "vento" -- lies in the Tyrrhenian Sea just west of the mainland region of Campania.

It occupies less than a square mile, and its history dates to the Roman Empire, when emperors such as Augustus and Tiberius found the island's isolation perfect for banished troublemakers. During World War II, it was used as a listening post by a German garrison before being captured by the Allies in 1943.

The island also has a rich literary history. It is thought that Homer intended this to be the spot where Ulysses confronted the sirens during his long journey home. John Steinbeck wrote about the 1943 U.S. raid on Ventotene while he was a war correspondent for the New York Herald Tribune.

During the day, you can sunbathe at one of the three main beaches. Cala Nave is the preferred choice for its accessibility, black volcanic sand and rock outcroppings that make for ideal basking in the intense Mediterranean sun.

Ventotene has become a scuba diving destination because of its lush and mostly undisturbed aquatic life. There are several scuba-diving schools on the island, one of which was erected in the late '70s and is the oldest scuba academy in the whole of Italy. Private and group lessons start at 100 euros.

Ventotene's size makes it perfect for simply setting off and exploring. Walking is cheap, and traversing the bright landscape -- which often doubles as cliff's edge because of the island's narrow width -- is rewarding not only for its brilliantly colored vegetation but also for its panoramic views and lack of entry fee.

Lower on the island, discover the chiseled rocks pockmarked by saline (little crevices used to collect fresh salt water in ancient times) and the sea caves down by the port where transparent pools often act as windows into the astonishing marine life that surrounds the island.

If you're looking for something a little less nature-oriented, there are two museums. Villa Giulia -- which is less enclosed museum than outdoor relic -- is the ancient remains of a structure that housed/imprisoned Emperor Augustus' daughter, Giulia, who was exiled there for her promiscuity and immorality. The other is the Archeological Museum, which in its more standard presentation holds many artifacts that have been uncovered on the island over the years.

Unlike its more frantic (by Italian standards) and popular southern neighbors, Ischia and Capri, Ventotene has barely been touched by international tourism. The hotels are affordable, and the food isn't overpriced. Today, it's home to a year-round population of about 600. That number skyrockets during the summer months, especially in August, when it seems that every Italian heads to the seaside, or September, when the Festival of Saint Candice (Festa di Santa Candida) turns the island into one extended party.

Ventotene's real appeal isn't in its breathtaking 360-degree sea views, its clear, clean water or even its architecture and people. There are other places in Italy just as stunning. Its charm is in the sense you get that you're experiencing something not discovered by the tourists who flock en masse to the rest of Italy year-round. A sense you're among Italians.

Getting there: Ferries run from Naples and Formia

Dining: The island's restaurants keep visitors well-fed during peak season from May to October. Da Benito, with an unparalleled location literally inside the foot of a cliff, or Il Giardino, known for its lentils, are popular choices. The choices are more limited off season.

How to Eat Out Without Gaining a Pound

Order it your way
You’re the customer, and most restaurants will do everything they can to keep you happy. So don’t be afraid to nicely ask to have that shrimp special grilled instead of fried.

Think tapas
Don’t feel compelled to order an entrée. You can put together a healthier meal out of two or three appetizers and side dishes.

Beware of the four Cs
Crunchy, cheesy, crispy, and creamy. Those words are code for fat-dense foods.

Say bye-bye to bread
There’s no need to test your willpower. Take just one slice, then ask the waiter to remove that breadbasket from the table.

Undress your salad
Dilute your favorite salad dressing with a squeeze of lemon or a few drops of vinegar.

Wrap it up
Get your doggy bag up front. Wrap up half before you dig in—out of sight, out of mind … and mouth.

America’s Healthiest Restaurants

by Health.com

You work out. You watch what you eat. But you don’t want to have to prepare every meal at home for the sake of your health—nor should you have to. We surveyed chain restaurants and found 10 surprisingly healthy standouts. Hit our top 10 for whole foods, good-for-you fats, even green vegetables on—gasp!—the children’s menu. Read on for the winners, great fast-food options, plus, how to eat out without gaining a pound.

If you’re like us, you eat out more than ever—and, as nice as it is to not have to cook, those meals out can actually feel like work. How do you navigate the minefields of huge portions, hidden fats, and sky-high sodium levels?

You shouldn’t have to resign yourself to paying for restaurant meals with a future cardiac workup. You just need to know where to go to find healthy, fresh food. To that end, we went out into the world of sit-down restaurants, looking to separate the (whole) wheat from the chaff.

Backed by an advisory panel of experts in healthy dining (meet our experts), we sifted through 43 chains with more than 75 locations across the country and, frankly, were astonished by how many restaurants made no nutritional information available. But judge we did (see How We Ranked Them), those brave (and progressive) enough to share their numbers. What you hold in your hands are the 10 that stood at the top of the heap.

Best Casual Dining Spots

Uno Chicago Grill

If you haven’t been to your local Uno’s recently, you’re in for a great surprise. Sure, its famous deep-dish (read high-fat) pizzas still hold court, but nutrition has become the word of the day with a completely trans fat–free menu and plenty of grilled entrees (including antibiotic-free chicken). Adding to the healthy variety: whole-grain pasta and brown rice, organic coffee and tea, and flatbread pizzas that have half the calories of deep-dish ones. Plus, you can add a salad to your pizza for half-price because, according to the menu, “We want you to get some greens in your diet.” Now that’s a blue-ribbon commitment to health. Another reason Uno’s is at the top of our list: You know what you’re eating. In the lobbies of most of the restaurant’s locations, there are Nutrition Information Centers that detail ingredients, fat and sodium contents, and calories and fiber of every item, in addition to gluten-free options.

Danger zone: Deep-dish pizzas can pile on the fat.

We love: The Penne Bolognese—just 16 grams of fat (well within the daily recommended max of 65 grams of fat for a 2,000-calorie-a-day diet).

Souplantation & Sweet Tomatoes

Can a buffet-style restaurant—that symbol of American overindulgence—possibly be one of the healthiest restaurants in the country? It can in this case, because this salad-soup-and-bakery eatery (Southern California locations are named Souplantation, everywhere else they’re called Sweet Tomatoes) uses produce so fresh that it’s guaranteed to have been “in the ground” 24 hours before it’s in a refrigerated truck on its way to the restaurant. At the salad bar you’ll find seasonal vegetables like squash and bell peppers, freshly tossed and prepared salads, and a great range of nonfat dressings. San Marino Spinach With Pumpkin Seeds and Cranberries, anyone? This is paradise for vegetarians, vegans, and anyone who’s looking for a low-sodium, low-fat, high-nutrient meal outside the home.

Danger zone: Plate overload—after all, it’s all-you-can-eat.

We love: The Tomato Spinach Whole Wheat pasta, a delicious combo of whole grains and veggies.

Mimi’s Cafe

This cozy café-style restaurant transforms normally less-than-healthy foods into better—and still tasty—options: a half-pound cheeseburger wrapped in lettuce (that’s right, no bun); the cutely named Naked French Market Onion Soup, served without cheese. Another thing to love is the way that Mimi’s clearly steers you toward its healthy options. Its “Lifestyle Menu” points you to low-carb picks like the fish of the day served with fresh steamed veggies. Also, Mimi’s keeps portions small, so you can get away with occasionally having one of their more indulgent entrees like the Sweet & Sour Coconut Shrimp (608 calories).

Danger zone: The “Comfort Classics” page of the menu, with throwbacks like rich (super-high-fat) Chicken Cordon Bleu.

We love: Chicken & Fruit (above)—grilled chicken and a garden salad, plus wedges of fresh orange, honeydew, watermelon, and cantalope.

P.F. Chang’s China Bistro

Take the best aspects of Asian cuisine—a combination of fresh vegetables and protein—surround them with healthy influences such as whole-grain brown rice, wild-caught, sustainable Alaskan salmon, and all-natural chicken, and you have a recipe for delicious, healthy dining. Wok-based cooking (which requires less oil) using soybean oil keeps fat contents low, and less sodium in the sauces rounds out P.F. Chang’s healthy take on Chinese food.

Special credit goes to their nutritional information being based on the whole entrée, not a single serving like at most places.

Danger zone: Traditional, fat-dense items such as Lo Mein Beef.

We love: Carb-free vegetarian lettuce wraps—wok-seared tofu, red onions, and water chestnuts with mint and lime, set in lettuce cups.

Bob Evans Restaurants

You wouldn’t think a restaurant that prides itself on sausage could muscle its way into the top five healthiest restaurants in the country. But Bob Evans scores high on its dinner menu, which has plenty of low-carb, low-fat entrees and alternatives for children and adults (chicken tenders that are grilled instead of fried, potato-crusted flounder, and salmon stir-fry). Look for sides like steamed broccoli florets and fresh fruit, and enjoy old-fashioned family meals in a modern, nutrition-forward way.

Danger zone: Breakfast, where bacon and sausage are kings.

We love: Healthy options on the kid’s menu, like slow-roasted turkey with mashed potatoes and glazed baby carrots, and fruit and yogurt dippers for dessert.

Ruby Tuesday

If we’d done this survey in 2004, Ruby Tuesday might have won the blue ribbon for printing all its nutritional content right on the menu. It was revolutionary, and, frankly, it didn’t last. But the healthy ethos survived in the chain’s ingredients: organic greens, hormone-free chicken, trans fat–free frying oil, and better-for-you beverages including Jones organic teas and made-to-order drinks like all natural lemonades (think real fruit and juice). It’s easy to find the good stuff—it’s highlighted—and the offerings range from a chicken wrap in a whole-wheat tortilla to broiled tilapia.

Danger zone: Comfort-food entrees like Gourmet Chicken Potpie, which piles more than half your daily calories on the plate.

We love: That they’ve even healthied-up the burgers, offering veggie and turkey versions.

Romano’s Macaroni Grill

This Italian eatery puts its entire menu’s nutritional content online, so you know before you go what to steer clear of—mainly, the massive baked pastas. But what pushed Macaroni Grill onto our best list is its “Sensible Fare” menu, with entrees like Simple Salmon, a grilled fillet sided by grilled asparagus and broccoli. Grazie for whole-wheat penne available as a substitute in any dish. And bravo for including a grilled skinless chicken breast with steamed broccoli and pasta on the kid’s menu.

Danger zone: Heavy entrees like spaghetti and meatballs with meat sauce.

We love: The delicious Italian sorbetto and biscotti—just 330 calories and 4 grams of fat.

Chevy’s Fresh Mex

Chevy’s makes a big deal out of the “fresh” in its name, and with good reason—no cans in the restaurant, fresh salsa blended every hour, fresh avocados smashed every day for guacamole, and watch-them-made tortillas. All oils are trans fat–free, and the Mexican-style fare has lots of healthy options including Grilled Fish Tacos.

Danger zone: Sodium counts. To get below 1,000 milligrams, you’ll need to get those Chicken Fajitas with no tortillas, tomalito, rice, sour cream, or guacamole.

We love: Fresh fish of the day, grilled and served on a skillet with homemade salsa.

Olive Garden

Like Macaroni Grill, this Italian eatery has great-for-you options, as long as you keep your wits about you (again, avoid the baked pastas!). Use the olive-branch icon on the menu to find low-fat “Garden Fare” items such as Venetian Apricot Chicken, (448 calories, 11 grams fat). Even the fries aren’t a disaster, because they’re done in trans fat–free oil. You can grab some whole-grain goodness, too, by choosing the whole-wheat linguine at dinner as a substitute for any pasta.

Danger zone: The non-olive-branch entrees. Olive Garden provides no nutritional information on anything else on the menu.

We love: The low-fat Capellini Pomodoro (644 calories and 14 grams fat).

Denny’s

Yes, the home of the Lumberjack Slam and Moons Over My Hammy offers lots of skinny options to counter its fatty mainstays. “Fit-Fare” dishes such as the grilled-chicken-breast salad, and tilapia with rice and veggies, each have less than 15 grams of fat. Denny’s also posts full nutritional information on its Web site. Its use of trans fats to cook its French fries kept it from landing higher on our list, but the rest of the fried food is trans fat–free.

Danger zone: Breakfast specials, especially the Meat Lover’s Scramble, which is as bad for you as it sounds.

We love: The online nutritional chart has Weight Watchers Food Exchange Values.

Shining Examples of Fast-Food Fare

Noodles & Company

Why does this Colorado-based chain top our quick-serve list? Noodles & Company combines 19 fresh vegetables with seven types of pastas in Asian, Mediterranean, or American entrees (think Indonesian Peanut Sauté or Wisconsin Mac & Cheese).

We love: The Trio—soup, noodles, or salad paired with your favorite protein, plus a side salad or a cup of soup.

Chipotle Mexican Grill

The idea is simple: Build your own gourmet burrito, fajita burrito, taco, or burrito bowl. The flavor and the healthiness are in the details—naturally raised, antibiotic-free meats, organic beans, and even hormone-free sour cream. Corn tortillas give you a whole-grain option, and the tortilla-less Burrito Bowl lets you ramp up the proteins and veggies.

We love: Anything with the chipotle-adobo-marinated grilled steak.

Cosi

Any chain that calls small appetizers “Shareables” has the healthy idea down. Cosi’s central theme—the hearth—yields tasty hearth-baked entrees (in the locations where they serve dinner), from Alpine Chicken to Grilled Wild Alaskan Salmon. High marks for baby carrots as a substitute for chips to go along with sandwiches.

We love: The delicious, healthy fruit smoothies in a green tea base.

Panera

The bread is fresh and tempting (and you can go whole-grain). But look to Panera’s soups for great low-calorie and low-sodium options. Fresh fruit cups and apples make for healthy sides, and we give the restaurant special kudos for offering kids’ meals that come with organic cheese and all-natural peanut butter.

We love: “You Pick Two” combos. You can get half a sandwich paired with a vegetarian soup

Au Bon Pain

This chain boasts hormone-and antibiotic-free chicken. Plus, it provides a great nonfood nutritional tool: computerized kiosks available in most locations allow you to plan your meal and even sort the menu by your goal—whether it be high fiber and protein; or low carb, fat, cholesterol, sodium, or calories.

We love: The restaurant’s recent move to using preservative-free chicken, for better flavor and less sodium.

6 Independents Leading the Way

Los Angeles: M Café

Remember your macrobiotic friends who eschewed refined sugar, eggs, and dairy, and their noble (but bland) dinner parties? Meet your new BFF: This café makes macrobiotic cuisine incredibly tasty fare.

Berkeley, California: Chez Panisse

A longtime leader in the movement to showcase organic ingredients, cooked in simple, healthy, and delicious ways, Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse offers a daily prix-fixe menu that includes vegetables fresh from the garden, fruit right off the branch, and fish straight from the sea.

New York City: Blue Hill

The Greenwich Village setting may whisper “speakeasy,” but the menu sings “farm.” Since 2000, this nationally lauded restaurant has been using produce and animals from Stone Barns Center, a four-season farm and educational center 30 miles up the Hudson River.

Chicago: Green Zebra

Green Zebra makes its vegetarian-oriented menu stand out with chef-owner Shawn McClain’s creative, flavorful pairings. Roasted Squash Salad With Chestnut, Pear, and Parsley? Yum.

Detroit: Inn Season Café

In a city where some of the hottest restaurants are cooking up dishes with rich cream sauces, you can thank your lucky stars for the Inn Season Café. Whole-grain burgers and lasagnas with veggies rule the roost.

Atlanta: Bacchanalia

Talk about farm fresh: Husband-and-wife team and co-owners Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison supply much of the restaurant’s organic offerings from their own farm.

And Now the Not-So-Healthiest

Not everything was so rosy out there. Below, some of the scarier items we came across in our travels.

Scary chicken: At Chili’s, 1 serving of Crispy Honey Chipotle Crispers (no dressing) just laid 1,890 calories at your door.

Sides to Die For: Literally. O’Charley’s Onion Rings with Cajun Horseradish Sauce packs 1,800 calories on the plate, and 139 grams of fat.

Worst advice: It’s hard to think healthy when the menu encourages you to fatten up, which is exactly what Cracker Barrel does, telling you to “loosen your belt and enjoy” its Country Boy Breakfast, which offers your choice of country ham, pork chops or steak grilled to order, three eggs cooked to order, fried apples, hashbrown casserole, grits, gravy, homemade buttermilk biscuits, real butter, and preserves or what they call Jam n’ Apple butter.

Is there such a thing as too much cheese? Yes, Pizza Hut: Stuffing cheese into pizza crusts is just plain overkill.

No wonder they sell a lot of soda: The chicken and beef grilled stuft burritos at Taco Bell both have more than 2,000 mg. sodium (and your daily max should be 2,300).

Killing us with silence: These places might look like healthy options, but they provide NO nutritional information. And we begged. Benihana, Bertucci’s, Bonefish Grill, and California Pizza Kitchen, why aren’t you talking?

Munich's new modern design

by Aric Chen

For much of the world, Munich is likely to evoke one or more stereotypical images, among them the Glockenspiel in the tower of the neo-Gothic Rathaus, or city hall; the annual Oktoberfest bacchanal; and mustachioed men wearing lederhosen. Style, a word generally not associated with lederhosen, doesn't spring to mind. But these days Munich, Germany's third-largest city and the capital of Bavaria, is shedding its dirndls and feathered caps in favor of cutting-edge design.

Until my latest visit, I hadn't thought much of the city. I had traveled there twice—once as a backpacking teenager lured by the promise of copious beer, and again about 10 years later—and in my more sober moments Munich seemed a bit of a bore. It was as if the Wittelsbachs were still holed up in the royal palace: the spires of Baroque churches soared above winding streets, throngs followed the pied-piping Glockenspiel to the Marienplatz (the historic main square), and the Odeonsplatz and tony Maximilianstrasse presided with Italianate decorum. Munich was charming, elegant and postcard-perfect—but often as riveting as a boiled Bavarian potato. It was a well-preserved time warp rebuilt after World War II with a hint of self-satisfied, Disneyesque preciousness.

That's no longer the case. "In some ways, Munich has always been a creative city," says Christian Haas, a young local designer, over drinks at Heyluigi, a bustling boîte in the fashionable Glockenbach neighborhood, where a herd of wall-mounted plastic animals is the primary décor. "But it's changed a lot in recent years," he adds.

As Munich celebrates its 850th birthday this year, its historic center remains pleasantly intact—though it's now also home to a new synagogue and a Jewish Museum, designed by German firm Wandel Hoefer Lorch and opened in 2007. They are signs not just of a reinvigorated Jewish community but of a burst of innovation, powered by a strong economy (companies like BMW and Siemens call Munich home) and by the global boom in contemporary design. Driving in from the airport, one sees the evidence immediately: there's the Allianz soccer stadium, an illuminated doughnut completed for the 2006 World Cup by vanguard Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. Closer to town are the BMW Museum and the glittering new BMW World, a car-delivery center accessorized with restaurants and shops. The swooping glass-and-steel leviathan, designed by Austrian firm Coop Himmelb(l)au, looks like a spaceship touching down.

Even the old center has received a design-driven jump start. Inserted with surgical precision inside a historic city block, Herzog & de Meuron's Fünf Höfe ("five courtyards") complex offers a Kubrickesque take on a 19th-century shopping arcade, its passageways and interior quadrangles distinguished by hanging plants, warped walls and a sculptural sphere by the artist Olafur Eliasson. One night, I met Uli Tredup, a Munich-based interior designer, for dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant called Brenner. The salsiccia was a bit dry, but the scene said it all, as bijoux-laden ladies and Gucci-swathed men navigated the minefield of high-end shopping bags by their chairs. More telling than the conspicuous consumption was the setting of the restaurant itself, which occupies the vaulted cavern of the city's royal stables, now encased within a modern complex built behind a Victorian-era façade. It's an 18th-century relic wrapped in 21st-century glass inside a 19th-century shell—an apt metaphor for the city's hybridization. The new creative energy is welcomed by Tredup, who has designed smart galleries and shops in Munich—including the Nymphenburg porcelain showroom and the Talbot Runhof boutique—as well as a house for Boris Becker.

Locals describe their home, tongue-in-cheek, as Italy's northernmost city. The pace is relaxed, and in summer the beer gardens are packed and the sky is pristine—an ideal habitat for the sun worshipers who stake their ground, full monty, in the R-rated section of the sprawling English Garden. "It's an extremely pleasant city," says Ingo Maurer, 76, the local designer who's legendary for his poetic lighting fixtures. "The feeling is gemütlich [cozy]," he says. Originally from the German side of Lake Constance, Maurer, who lives part-time in New York, settled in Munich four decades ago. With its egg yolk-yellow buildings hemming a quiet courtyard, his compound just off Kaiserstrasse could be described as gemütlich as well. This month, Maurer plans to open his first-ever Munich showroom, where visitors will find his classics—say, an explosive chandelier of shattered china—along with exhibitions, lectures and his latest work.

Munich is also home to designer Konstantin Grcic, renowned for the technological and formal innovations of his space-age products, and furniture maker ClassiCon, which produces several Grcic designs. The haute-modern kitchen manufacturer Bulthaup has its headquarters just outside of town. An emerging generation, including Haas and former Grcic protégés Stefan Diez, Nitzan Cohen and Clemens Weisshaar, are bringing their energy and talent to the city just as surefire, imported names like David Chipperfield and Andrée Putman have contributed interiors for, respectively, the Rena Lange boutique and the historic center's Blue Spa and Restaurant, at the Bayerischer Hof hotel.

The inventive crowd now flocks to a number of newly buzzing establishments. In the historic center they fill the restaurant Schumann's, a standby having a revival, and Saf im Zerwirk, a vegan eatery designed by Cohen. In nearby Glockenbach they savor tagliatelli al ragù at Heyluigi or the all-day breakfast at Café Maria, sip wine at the chilled-out Maroto Bar or the livelier Café King, and browse the tightly edited design bookstore Soda.

Not all is new here in terms of groundbreaking design. Munich was home to the Deutscher Werkbund, the seminal early-20th-century association—a Bauhaus precursor—that sought to integrate crafts with modern industry. Among its members were artists Richard Riemerschmid and Peter Behrens, who would help found the Neue Sammlung museum, which today has the world's largest collection, at around 75,000 objects, of modern and contemporary design. In 2002, the museum left its "provisional" home of nearly 80 years for dramatically expanded quarters in the Pinakothek der Moderne. Among its soaring galleries is one of the most comprehensive design installations I've ever seen, spanning Art Nouveau chairs, the Bauhaus, and mid-20th-century masters, as well as Macintosh computers and Braun appliances.

Nowadays, the city's forward-looking spirit shows up in unexpected ways. Consider the Nymphenburg porcelain manufactory, located in the 17th-century Nymphenburg Palace, its home for more than 250 years. The frilly figurines and Rococo dinner services are still handcrafted using machines powered by water. Swans ripple across the ponds of the palace grounds, where you might spot Franz, the current Duke of Bavaria, walking his dachshund, Wastl. But Nymphenburg's kilns are also producing some of the most notable contemporary designs around: porcelain driftwood candleholders by Ted Muehling, plates by Hella Jongerius that reveal the process of applying decoration, faux-stitched teapots by Grcic. "We want to explore what's possible in porcelain, while creating timeless pieces that have long-term value," Nymphenburg's CEO, Jörg Richtsfeld, tells me.

Munich is remaking itself by engaging its past. Its most radical spaces (think of Fünf Höfe or even Brenner) have emerged from a rich historical fabric, just as Nymphenburg's froufrou porcelain has evolved into pieces now coveted by avant-garde aficionados. The city is wresting innovation from its most entrenched traditions. And that may soon even extend—yes—to lederhosen. "It took me five years of living in Munich before I would even go to Oktoberfest, and 20 years to wear lederhosen there," says the designer Uli Tredup. "But now it's actually sort of cool for the kids to wear traditional clothes."

Sun-splashed Miami on a budget

It might be notorious for its late-night party scene, swanky beach hotels with steeply priced drinks and the beachgoers who wear barely-there $300 swimsuits, but vacationing Miami-style doesn't have to cost a fortune.

From $3 beers to staying at a hostel for $34 a night to $7 bike rides along the Florida Everglades, visitors looking for deals have lots of options in the area.

Lodging

If you're adventurous and on a tight budget, consider staying in a hostel. Rooms can house anywhere between three and 14 travelers, sleeping on bunk beds, from $18 a night per person to about $40, depending on season and room size. Hostels in Miami Beach include Tropics Hotel & Hostel (1550 Collins Ave.), Jazz on South Beach Hostel (321 Collins Ave.), and South Beach Hostel (235 Washington Ave.).

For more conventional lodging, research your hotel at the one-stop shopping Web site http://www.miamihotels.com. Book a room while looking for nearby attractions, beaches and events.

Miami Beach

The Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is perfect for strolls and people-watching. You'll find dozens of restaurants and shops, along with locals walking dogs or weaving through the crowds on roller blades.

For a quick bite, check out Pizza Rustica (667 Lincoln Road, other locations on Washington Avenue), where you can get a huge slice of gourmet pizza for about $5. This is also a great spot for club-goers looking for something to fill their stomachs after a few drinks since it's open from 11 a.m. until 3 or 4 a.m.

At 625 Lincoln Road is a hidden gem popular with the locals. Snuggled between two stores is the narrow, tiny bar called Zeke's Roadhouse, which boasts more than 80 bottled beers and drafts from around the world -- each just $3. No hard alcohol is sold here, and no outside food or drinks are allowed on the premises. Keep your ID handy since bartenders check it with each purchase. No ID, no beer.

If you prefer to spend your time on the sand, the beach is walking distance (and free, unless you rent the pricey beach chairs). On your stroll, check out the Art Deco architecture and ritzy hotels. Or snap some pictures at the Casa Casuarina mansion where fashion designer Gianni Versace once lived, now a luxury hotel at 1116 Ocean Drive.

A drink at a trendy hotel bar on the beach -- the Delano, Setai, Shore Club, Gansevoort -- can cost up to $15, but you might just run into a celebrity. Owen Wilson was spotted at the Delano while filming "Marley & Me" with Jennifer Aniston. She reportedly spent time at the Mandarin Oriental.

Many restaurants in South Beach and other touristy areas automatically add a tip (usually 15-18 percent) to the bill.

Art and gardens

The Miami Art Museum (101 W. Flagler St.) has a unique collection of different cultural traditions of South Florida. Adults pay $8, seniors $4, free for children under 12 and students with ID; free to all on the second Saturday of each month. Also on second Saturdays, local galleries and studios in the Wynwood Art District offer free wine (or beer) on a gallery walk, 7-10 p.m. The Wynwood galleries are open other days as well.

A short cab ride away, in the heart of Miami about a mile from downtown, is Vizcaya Museum & Gardens (3251 S. Miami Ave.) built by agricultural industrialist James Deering in 1916. The landmark property includes a main house filled with treasures from around the world, a walkway lined with fountains and foliage, 10 acres of formal gardens and a hardwood hammock overlooking Biscayne Bay. Admission for adults is $12; children 6-12, $5; ages 5 and younger free.

Not far away, in the Miami suburb of Coral Gables, is the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden
(10901 Old Cutler Road) with an extensive collection of rare tropical plants. Stop by its verandah restaurant or garden cafe, or spend the afternoon drinking tea here. Adults pay $20; seniors $15; children 6-17, $10. Admission is pay as you wish on the first Wednesday of each month.

Entertainment and food

Transit Lounge in the downtown area (729 SW First Ave.) hosts several local bands during the week that play Latin and funk music. A drink is around $6; open late (5 a.m.). If you get tired of dancing, sit along the walls adorned with paintings done by local artists and play that favorite game from childhood, Connect Four.

Calle Ocho, or Eighth Street, hosts Viernes Culturales or Cultural Fridays the last Friday of every month. The art and street festival spans four blocks lined with more than a dozen galleries, restaurants blasting Latin music and cigar shops -- some offering free drinks and appetizers. Stages are set up for live music. Organizers say the Latin festival attracts over 10,000 people to the heart of Little Havana. Dancing and cigar smoking is encouraged.

While on Calle Ocho, don't miss the Cuban food and coffee at Little Havana's famed Versailles Restaurant (3555 SW Eighth St.) a required stop for vote-seeking politicians -- including, most recently, Republican presidential contenders Rudy Giuliani and Mike Huckabee.

Nature

The best way to see South Florida's alligator-infested waters is riding an airboat through the Everglades. Everglades Alligator Farm is about 35 miles south of Miami in Homestead, while Everglades Safari Park is about 15 miles west on the Tamiami Trail. Both places offer a chance to experience Florida's river of grass up close. You can even take a picture holding a baby alligator or watch an alligator show. The adventure, airboat and all, costs about $23 for adults, $15 or less for children. Both Web sites offer printable discount coupons.

Also in Homestead, Shark Valley Tram Tours rents bikes for $6.50 an hour. A 15-mile nature trail through the northern region of Everglades National Park takes two to three hours. If you'd rather rest your feet, a two-hour guided tram ride with wildlife viewing and a stop at the Shark Valley observation tower for a panoramic view of the Everglades costs $15.25 ($9.25 for ages 3-12). (Access to Shark Valley was limited in early October due to flooding, with tram tours suspended and bike routes limited, so check on conditions before you plan a trip there.)

The fee for car entry to Everglades National Park is $10, good for seven consecutive days, or $5 per person on foot, bike or motorcycle.

Transportation

Miami lacks comprehensive public transportation, but there are economical ways to get around. You can't miss the big blue Super Shuttle vans from the airport to the beach and Miami hotels, $20 plus tip. The Tri-Rail is a convenient, affordable way to navigate the region, with stops including area airports, Fort Lauderdale, Delray Beach, Boca Raton and West Palm Beach. One-way fares are $2-$5.50, all-day $4 weekend fare.

Taxis are widely available if you prefer not to rent a car. A ride from the airport to the beach can cost about $30-35.

Copenhagen: Where to Eat

At last count, Copenhagen's restaurants boasted 12 Michelin stars between them, more than anywhere else in Scandinavia.

Noma (Strandgade 93) is unique in that it can claim two of those stars. From a converted waterfront warehouse, chef Rebe Redzepi offers a modern take on Nordic cuisine, scouring Scandinavia for ingredients such as langoustines from the Faeroe Islands, wild salmon from Iceland and musk ox from Greenland -- fantastic served with glazed beetroots, apple and smoked marrow.

Geranium (Kronprinsessegade 13), in the beautiful gardens of Kongens Have, has earned a Michelin star for its biodynamic, organic cuisine, including some imaginative vegetarian dishes -- try the new carrots with elderflower vinegar, sago and white chocolate.

Le Sommelier (Bredgade 63-65) has more than 800 wines and a famous crème brûlée with geranium ice cream, while Café Victor (Ny Østergade 8) is a hip bistro that draws an artsy crowd and the occasional visiting celebrity. It also boasts a fine selection of spirits.

Vegans will find unfussy fare at Den Grønne Kælder (Pilestaede 48) and Restaurant Flow (Gyldenløvesgade 10) dishes up organic vegetarian food in a relaxed setting.

Danes drink more coffee per person than any other nationality, so perhaps it's not so surprising that they have won the world barista championship four times in the last eight years. Klaus Thomsen was 2006 champion and he runs Estate Coffee (Dronning Olgas Vej 30), which slow roasts its own blends, as does Café Europa (Amagertorv 1), run by 2001 champion Martin Hildebrandt.

Café Stelling (Gammel Torv 6) looks stunning with its Arne Jacobsen chairs, tables, bar stools and lamps, while multi-taskers will enjoy Laundromat Café (Elmegade 15), where you can grab a coffee, wash your clothes, and browse through the 4,000 used books that are on sale there.

No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without sampling the Danes' favourite snack, "smørrebrød." The classic 'open sandwich' consists of dense, dark brown rye bread finished with toppings that might include smoked salmon, herring, cheese, egg or shrimp. You can choose from 200 varieties at Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70). The Royal Café (Amagertorv 6) offers a more refined take on the open sandwich, served in sushi-sized portions and eaten in suitably regal surroundings.

Like the Danes themselves, Copenhagen's nightlife is generally relaxed, although not without its surprises.

There's currently a trend for 'hybrid' establishments that are cafés by day, but morph into bars or restaurants in the evening, and feature a dancefloor-filling DJ when night falls. The sophisticated Aura (Rådhusstræde 4) is a restaurant in the week and cocktail bar on Friday and Saturday nights.

Pussy Galore's Flying Circus (Sankt Hans Torv 30) is the epitome of Danish minimalism -- sleek, stylish and flawlessly decked out in Arne Jacobsen furnishings. The breakfasts are good, the brunches are famous and the mojitos are even better, making it an excellent place to start the day or to kick start the night.

While Carlsberg may be Copenhagen's best-known contribution to the noble art of brewing, the city is also home to a handful of micro breweries. Still, if you're determined to stick with the Carlsberg, be sure to try it at Vinstue 90 (Gammel Kongevej 90). Ask for a slow beer and you'll have to wait 15 minutes for a meticulously pulled draft Carlsberg with a huge creamy head; but with fewer bubbles and bags of flavor it's well worth the wait.

Copenhagen: City overview

A recent study on global wellbeing showed the Danes to be the happiest people on the planet and with about a fifth of them living in their capital it stands to reason that Copenhagen must be a little bit special.

So what are they so happy about? Well, lifestyle magazine Monocle recently named Copenhagen as being the world's most livable city, highlighting the quality of its infrastructure, transport system and contemporary buildings.

It's true that the city is well planned and well managed; it boasts a new metro system, the main arteries in the centre are pedestrianized and the other streets are filled with cyclists rather than exhaust fumes.

But Copenhagen is not some soulless exercise in sterile urban planning. There are the winding medieval streets of Indre By and the Latin Quarter, the picture-postcard houses of Nyhavn, the canals of Christanshavn, and the palaces and parks of Fredericksstaden and Rosenborg. The city is, simply, charming.

If you spend some time in Copenhagen you'll quickly come to understand the Danish concept of "hygge", a word with multiple meanings that is best translated as something between "cozy" and "relaxed". But if that suggests a city of bygone cuteness it doesn't take into account the sleek modernism of Danish design.

Arne Jacobsen's legacy can be seen throughout the city (check out the Radisson SAS Royal and Café Stelling) but no less visionary are recent structures such as Henning Larsen's futuristic Opera House or the dramatic new Royal Library, known as the "Black Diamond".

The clean lines and minimalism that characterize Danish design are evident in the interiors of the city's stylish bars, restaurants and hotels and perhaps their influence can even be detected in the trend away from bland, stodgy cooking to a cleaner, healthier style that is earning the city's restaurants acclaim and Michelin stars.

The alternative side of Copenhagen can be seen in places like Christiania, the 'free city' founded in 1971 by a collection of dropouts, hippies and social visionaries.

The fact that this semi-autonomous experiment in communal living has survived for so long is testament to the open-mindedness of the Danish; but the very existence of Christiania has always been controversial and government plans to 'normalize' the area suggest it may not be 'free' much longer.

Like any city of its size, Copenhagen has its share of social problems. Nørrebro has been the scene of a riots in recent years, with some commentators blaming social deprivation and others blaming boredom among young people.

But it is working class areas like Nørrebro and Vesterbro, away from the tourist trail, that are the beating heart of the city. They are home to many of Copenhagen's trendiest bars and clubs and they have a sense of community that is difficult to convey; it is something Danes might describe as "hygge".

So why are the Danish so happy? Go to Copenhagen and you'll understand.

Tokyo: Where to eat

Last year, the Michelin guide's first foray into Tokyo left the city with some 190 Michelin stars, compared with 95 in Paris and 50 in London and New York. Of course, that's partly down to the sheer number of eateries in Tokyo -- estimated at more than 180,000 establishments -- but it's also testimony to the reverence Tokyoites have for fresh ingredients prepared with the utmost care.

Tokyo's restaurants will usually serve a single type of food, be it sushi, "yakitori" (grilled chicken or vegetable skewers) or noodles, and you'll find a bewildering range of options for each variety. To make matters more complicated, many of the best restaurants are hidden inside anonymous office blocks or a marked only by a tiny sign, usually in Japanese characters.

You'll naturally want to sample the local sushi, and you'll find none better than at the unassuming Sukiyabashi Jiro (Residence B, Keyakizaka Dori, Roppongi Hills, 6-12-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku), a tiny basement eatery worthy of each of its three Michelin stars.

For unbeatable sushi, and an unforgettable experience, set your alarm clock for an early-morning trip to Tsukiji fish market. Every day from 5 a.m. fishermen auction their fresh catch to a rowdy horde of restaurateurs, eager to secure the choicest specimens for their menus.

Treat yourself to a breakfast of just-caught fish at one of the many sushi stalls and restaurants at the market. Daiwa Sushi (5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-Ku) and Iwasa Sushi (Tsukiji Market Part 1 Bldg., 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku) are exceptional. Sushi-Zanmai lets you pick your dishes from a conveyor belt and is great value for money.

For the crispiest tempura in town, try one of the many branches of Ten-ichi. You'll find the Ginza branch at the intersection of Harumi Dori and Sotobori Dori.

Set serenely in a small garden behind a wooden wall, Kanda Yabu Soba (2-10 Kanda Awajicho, Chiyoda-ku) is an atmospheric spot to slurp up some delicious soba noodles. Try the "tendane" -- soba noodles in "tsuyu" soup, with deep-fried shrimp on the side, or sample the classic tempura soba -- soba noodles served in broth with deep-fried shrimp on top.

You shouldn't leave Tokyo without indulging in "kaiseki" -- an elaborate multi-course cuisine in which presentation is raised to an art form. Kanda (3-6-34 Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku,), and Kitcho, in the Hotel Seiyo Ginza, (1-11-2 Ginza, Chou-ku) have mastered that art and offer "kaiseki" masterpieces at suitably elevated prices.

Tokyo can be a tricky place for vegetarians but the traditional Zen Buddhist cuisine called "shojin-ryori" is completely vegetarian. Daigo (2-4-2 Atago, Minato-ku) has caught the attention of top western chefs with its elegant "kaiseki"-inspired "shojin-ryori". Its dining rooms overlook a serene garden of bonsai trees and the food is immaculate. Gesshinkyo (4-24-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku) serves a modern version of the style.

To eat and drink like a local, visit an "izakaya" -- essentially, a bar that serves food, usually at a good price. "Izakaya" offer sake and beer and usually have an open counter where chefs rustle up a selection of dishes that will include sashimi, noodles and "yakitori." Try Buri, a Tokyo chain that specializes in one-cup sake, or Cha Cha Hana (1-1-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku) -- a trendy take on the classic "izakaya," which serves up treats like potato dumplings stuffed with scallops.

Italia's Alberghi Diffusi

The National Association of Diffuse Hotels' website is only in Italian, but it has links to 23 alberghi diffusi in the frame labeled "Alberghi Diffusi aderenti." Here are a few with nightly double rates unless noted.

SEXTANTIO, ABRUZZI The albergo diffuso's restaurant is open Wednesday and Thursday for dinner only, and Friday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, from $252 with breakfast.

FORGARIA MONTE PRAT, FRIULI About 20 apartments and villas are scattered throughout several towns in the mountains near the Austrian border, villas from $94, apartments from $110.

SOTTO LE CUMMERSE, PUGLIA All 10 apartments in the historic center of Locorotondo have modern amenities, such as TVs, DVD players, and air-conditioning, from $129.

TRULLIDEA, PUGLIA Twenty-five conical trulli houses—common in southern Puglia—have been turned into guest rooms in Alberobello, from $135.

CORTE FIORITA, SARDINIA The colorful houses in the charming town of Bosa contain 25 hotel rooms, some overlooking the Temo River, from $102.

VAL DI KAM, SICILY There are 10 rooms in Sant'Angelo Muxaro, a village on a chalk cliff that centuries ago was a necropolis. The hotel offers a pranzo diffuso, or "diffuse breakfast tour," which includes visits to a shepherd for fresh cheese and to a baker for bread and olive oil. The tour ends in a courtyard where a selection of pastries is served, from $88, breakfast $39 with guide.

BORGO DEI CORSI, TUSCANY Ten renovated apartments are available for rent in Raggiolo, an ancient stone village in the Casentino mountains southeast of Florence, from $700 per week.

LA CASELLA, UMBRIA This albergo diffuso includes more than 30 rooms in several 19th-century houses on 1,100 acres near the Tuscany-Umbria border. There's also a spa and an equestrian center, from $220 with breakfast.

Five Ways to Make Dining in Tokyo a Little Less Frustrating

1. Get good advice . . .

Tokyo isn't set up like other cities. The name on an address refers to the general area rather than a specific street. Plus, the numbers on two neighboring buildings aren't necessarily in numerical order. Also confusing is the fact that the metro system has recently changed its naming rules; now each station goes by a combination of a letter and number (e.g., E06 and A12), instead of a name. For the time being, they're using both. Having access to a concierge who can print detailed street maps with landmarks and directions (in Japanese for taxi drivers) might be worth the price of staying at a hotel with a good concierge.

2. . . . in two languages

Ask your concierge for restaurants' names in romaji (western letters) and Japanese characters--you never know how the name will be written on the facade.

3. Accept the fact that you'll end up lost

It's inevitable. Luckily, Tokyo is safe and endlessly walkable, and its residents are always happy to help you find your way.

4. When in doubt, search out visual cues

Most often, an English menu is a tell-tale sign that a restaurant is a tourist trap. There are better methods to know what you're eating--and to make sure it's good. Start by going places where you can see the food, such as kaiten-zushi, rotating sushi bars. A gathering of office workers patiently waiting in line is a mark of quality (not necessarily the case in other cities). And red lanterns indicate that a restaurant is an izakaya, a Japanese-style pub with casual food.

5. And don't overlook convenience stores

Found all around Tokyo, convenience stores are utterly fascinating (for starters, many have cash registers that show weather reports). They are also stocked with all sorts of tasty items, such as French pastries and odd buns, which in a pinch make a fine fast lunch. You may scoff, but you'll end up there. Trust me.

Chic, Affordable Tokyo Cafes

The two major misconceptions about dining in Tokyo: There's nothing but Japanese food, and it all costs a fortune. Aoyama, home to many luxury boutiques, is a place where you're likely to want a quick, cheap bite.

Conveniently, the neighborhood has a number of stylish cafés serving good, simple food.

Caffè @ Idée

The Idée brand of interior design is a Tokyo institution, and the flagship Aoyama shop houses a café serving a substantial menu of sandwiches, pastas, and more. Minami-Aoyama 6-1-16-3F

Café Les Jeux

Most drinks are a bit pricey--but it's worth trying one to sample some unusual uses of coffee. One of the most creative is the Sourire Glacé ("iced smile"): Milk is poured over crushed ice cubes made out of coffee ($5.50). Minami-Aoyama 5-9-5-2F

Café Crépuscule

Even without a café on the premises, the NADiff shop located off Omotesando would be worth a visit. Its carefully curated art books, magazines, CDs, and accessories are a joy to browse while sipping one of Crépuscule's many Belgian beers. Jingu-mae 4-9-8-B1F

Café Plus Minus Zero

The ultrachic Plus Minus Zero brand of accessories and electronics was started a few years ago by toymaker Takara, in conjunction with designer Naoto Fukasawa. Behind the Aoyama shop is a minimalist café, with a pretty patio. Kita-Aoyama 3-12-12

Dragonfly Café

Follow the sign pointing up to the second floor, past the cow statue (indicating a branch of Cow Books). The seating arrangements divide the small café into a couple of distinct spaces: a large communal table with a funky green top, two quiet side rooms, and a terrace with a view of the surrounding greenery. Minami-Aoyama 3-13-14-2F

Office

The name takes a cue from the furniture--desks, tables, and chairs that would be equally at home in a conference room. But make no mistake: This evening-only option (it opens at 5 p.m.) is a surprisingly relaxing place to hang out and flip through style/design magazines. Kita-Aoyama 2-7-18-5F

Great food bargains in Great Britain

by Rick Steves

In general, I found British portions huge. Rather than getting two appetizers, two main dishes and two desserts with wine for $70 each, a couple can order two appetizers, split a main dish, split a dessert and drink tap water. You'll probably fill up fine, enjoy the same atmosphere, and get out for $30 each. Don't be shy about sharing. I find waiters sympathize with budget travelers these days; they accommodate our cost-cutting measures with a smile.

Great budget values in any town are the cafes in the farmers' market -- where you can get baked beans with your breakfast all day long. Many churches have cafes where volunteers serve up soup and sandwiches for a price that's not particularly cheap -- but you know you're supporting a humble congregation's community work. Hungry sightseers appreciate the handy, moderately priced cafeterias they'll find in larger museums.

Good fish and chips joints are rare. In each town there seems to be one that is evangelical about grease and has won the undying allegiance of a passionate local following. To find them, look for one thing these winning "chippies" seem to have in common -- a guy behind the counter who's as greasy as the fish.

I don't like recommending chains, but some are just too fun to miss. Wagamama, a pan-Asian noodle slurp-a-thon, is everywhere now ... and just as great as the day its first location took Soho by storm. An Italian chain, Ask, nabs the grandest old dining hall in town and fills it with happy eaters enjoying pasta and pizzas at good prices.

English office workers like to get top-quality sandwiches for lunch. Follow their lead, skip the tired chain spots, and find a deli with a line of local professionals at the counter. At one deli, I just lingered on my stool, nibbling on my wonderful sandwich and sipping a glass of tap water, while watching all the yuppies swing by for their takeout meal.

For reasonably priced meals in a nice setting, take advantage of early-bird dinner specials at fancier restaurants, you'll eat well, but early (generally 5:30 to 7 p.m.).

For a splurge, I avoid the big, highly advertised formula places, and seek out quirky little 10-table restaurants that represent the creative vision of their owners. I am always impressed by the passion of the couples -- gay, straight, professional or romantic -- that run these establishments.

How do I find these special haunts? I rely heavily on the advice of B&B hosts, who have no vested interest in anything other than satisfied guests.

Eating a Bento Box Lunch at Ueno Metro Staion, Tokyo

Amanda Barden Stradling, 25, right, an Ameri-Corps volunteer from Provo, Utah, with her visiting sister, Katherine Barden. Ms. Barden Stradling was in Tokyo for three months accompanying her husband (not pictured), a diplomatic intern. “We had just gotten back from Ueno Park, where they have all these temples to explore, and we were hungry so we wanted to grab some lunch. We knew we were going to have to wait for the train, so we just broke out these bento boxes. I later found out that it was kind of a faux pas to eat in the Metro. The man in the suit leaned over and said something to me, and I just smiled at him and he smiled back, so he was probably asking me how my lunch was; I had no idea. But that was a cool thing about Tokyo — the people were so nice because they knew I had no idea what was going on.”

Restaurant Review | James: In the Neighborhood, and of It

Many people have had an indirect hand in the small, sweet new restaurant James, starting with James Calvert, for whom it’s named. A great-grandfather of the restaurant’s chef, Bryan Calvert, he too made his living as a cook in New York, setting an example, showing the way.

The list goes on to include the writer Susan Sontag, who died in 2004, and the photographer Annie Leibovitz. Bryan Calvert worked as their personal chef at their country house upstate, where he tried to satisfy both Ms. Leibovitz’s desire for farm-fresh, unembellished fare and Ms. Sontag’s affinity for French flair. The menu at James balances the two.

But I like to think that we owe James to Britney Spears above all others. Through his affiliation with Ms. Leibovitz, Mr. Calvert occasionally catered celebrity photo shoots, and he still vividly recalls a session involving the onetime priestess of teen pop.

He said he unveiled the usual bountiful spread, only to be informed that Ms. Spears ate nothing but BLT sandwiches for lunch. So he hustled back into the kitchen and re-emerged with a stack of these, only to be told that he’d erred anew. He’d used mayonnaise. That wasn’t how she liked her BLTs, and that wasn’t how she was going to eat them.

Is it any wonder that he retreated to the everyday agita of the restaurant business, where the customer is perhaps always right but the customer seldom has an eccentric nutrition regimen and an entourage on guard against rogue condiments?

James, tucked among residential buildings in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, is the kind of modest, warm refuge produced by a chef who wants to simplify things, to personalize things, to work on a scale that doesn’t require or invite the meddling of too many outsiders.

Mr. Calvert owns and manages it with his wife, Deborah Williamson. They live in the apartment smack above the space it inhabits, which used to belong to Restaurant Sorrel. When Sorrel went out of business they pounced, recognizing an easy commute when they saw one.

For the renovations they didn’t hire decorators. They themselves decided to reclaim the pressed tin ceiling that had been obscured. They chose the chocolate color of the banquette against the white brick wall opposite the long bar. They picked out the 16-armed translucent lighting fixture in the center of the room.

And they didn’t reach to consultants for help with writing the succinct, appealing menu, which takes advantage of herbs they grow themselves in an outdoor garden adjacent to their apartment, on the roof of a garage next door. James is a Mom-and-Pop operation for the Alice Waters era, giving locavores sage, basil, oregano and rosemary they can feel especially virtuous about.

It’s also an example of how quietly sophisticated the food at restaurants fashioned as affordable neighborhood bistros has become. No bigger, brasher restaurant around town served me an heirloom tomato salad this summer that I enjoyed any more than one at James.

The tomatoes were bright and juicy and didn’t taste of the refrigerator, and the warm goat cheese fondue with them was a perfect tangy, creamy counterpoint. It marked the dish as the product of smart thinking and skilled execution, not just righteous purchasing. Locavore letdown alert: the tomatoes didn’t come from the couple’s limited garden. This is a densely populated section of Brooklyn we’re talking about, not Sunnybrook Farms.

A spinach salad was similarly impressive. Could spinach salad sound less sexy, or more like an ascetic Midtown lunch on the go? I loved James’s. Each gorgeous, unblemished leaf was crisp and only lightly dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette, and shiitake mushrooms and Parmesan cheese made sure there was plenty of umami afoot. The salad had a deep, satisfying flavor.

The seared scallops over a watercress purée in another appetizer and the grilled prawns over a sunchoke purée in yet another had been cooked with care and dressed up with restraint and sound judgment. Mr. Calvert’s time years ago in the kitchens at Bouley and at Union Pacific was well spent. For the most part he combines flavors sensibly, and he doesn’t lose sight of a dish’s centerpiece attraction.

An entree of roasted chicken, brightened with lemon thyme, hit its mark — crunchy skin, tender meat — both times I had it. A roasted loin of lamb was even better, its powdery coat of pine nuts and rosemary enhancing the luscious meat without eclipsing it.

And for a sweet finish both a chocolate ganache cake and a grilled lemon pound cake provided the uncomplicated pleasure I sought in this kind of setting, steering clear of the excessive fussiness of a few other desserts.

James certainly has weak spots, inconsistencies, befuddlements. Mr. Calvert seems to be struggling to nail the rhubarb honey glaze with crispy sweetbreads: it was medicinal one time, borderline cloying another. His fettuccine with shiitake and Manchego was a dry, bland heap of pasta crying out for something wet, something more.

The restaurant’s brief wine list, while sensible, won’t wow anyone, though James provides a full bar, which many restaurants like it don’t. And it mixes a few winning cocktails, including one with gin, St. Germain, lemon juice and fresh mint, often plucked from the garden nearby. Vice linking arms with virtue: that’s a partnership we can all surely toast.

605 Carlton Avenue (St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, (718) 942-4255.

ATMOSPHERE About 45 seats, 15 of them bar stools, in a simple, inviting room with a pressed tin ceiling.

SOUND LEVEL Moderately loud.

RECOMMENDED DISHES Spinach salad; tomato salad; scallops; lamb; roasted chicken; shell steak; chocolate ganache cake; lemon almond pound cake.

WINE LIST Short and mostly Western European; most bottles under $50.

PRICE RANGE Appetizers, $8 to $16; entrees, $14 to $29; desserts, $8 to $10.

HOURS From 5:30 to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.

RESERVATIONS Accepted only for parties of six or more.

CREDIT CARDS All major cards.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Entrance and restaurant at street level; accessible restroom.

My Marrakech Is Better Than Yours by Maryam Montague

I'm an American, but for my whole life I've been a nomad. It started in Cairo, where I was born. (My dad, a New Yorker, was on assignment in Egypt.) My travels have continued through more than 70 countries--Cambodia to Colombia, Iran to Italy, Namibia to Nepal--and my work as a specialist in human rights and democracy means the list keeps growing.

Every place I've visited has been compelling in its own way, but I never found a city that made me want to settle down until I came to Marrakech. Its appeal comes from so much more than the snake charmers, the fortune-tellers, and the souks--though they help, too. The hospitable people, the delicious food, the mysterious architecture, and the fascinating Moroccan culture all add up to make Marrakech a city like no other. Borrowing the words of little Goldilocks, Marrakech felt "just right" somehow.

So two years ago, my husband (an American architect), our two children, and I traded in our nomadic existence for a nine-acre olive grove on the outskirts of Marrakech. We then set out to open The Peacock Nest, an online shop selling beautiful Moroccan things, and to design and build a stylish, ecofriendly boutique hotel called Peacock Pavilions; both are named after the peacocks that roam the property.

Somewhere along the way, I decided to start writing a blog, My Marrakesh, a great big love letter to my new home. I enjoy sharing my passion for Marrakech with anyone who will pay attention. And they do: I'm not exactly sure why, but thousands of people read My Marrakesh every day. Either my mother is paying them all--she always wanted me to be popular in high school--or people are genuinely interested in the enchanting city that I'm lucky enough to call home.

EAT

Morocco is famous for its food, and no wonder. It's mouthwatering and eclectic, and there's something for everyone. The best-known dish is the tagine, a filling stew slow cooked in an earthenware pot with a conical lid. In addition to chicken, beef, lamb, fish, or vegetables, tagines often include stewed fruit, olives, onions, or almonds. Many restaurants also serve couscous, particularly as a traditional family lunch on Fridays. The seven-veggie couscous royale, topped with a raisin/onion concoction, is not to be missed.

Brochettes (skewers of meat or chicken) are always a safe bet and are especially popular with the junior set. Harira, a soup made with tomatoes and chickpeas and served with bread and dates, is a warming and often vegetarian alternative. If the food strikes you as a touch blah--you chili fiend!--request harissa, a hot sauce that'll send your taste buds into overdrive.

There's a wide variety of places to nibble and dine in Marrakech, from street stalls to opulent restaurants out of The Arabian Nights. And café culture is omnipresent--thanks, no doubt, to the country's history as a French colony. I provide a range of food choices below, from the super cheap to the save-up-your-pennies splurge. Also included are some non-Moroccan options for those who want to mix it up a little.

Marrakech's bountiful tangerine and orange trees make for fresh juice everywhere. Yay! By day, head to the orange-juice stalls on the Jemaa el-Fna, the city's famous central square. There are dozens of juice stalls, all of which are numbered. I haven't ever really noticed a difference between the juice at No. 1 and the juice at No. 23. So pick the stand with your lucky number and make a beeline. A smile usually gets you a free half refill.

By night, the juice stalls are wheeled away and dozens of open-air kitchens are set up in tidy rows, with communal bench seating. I'm partial to the stall where a chef with a handlebar moustache makes harira. Be sure to check out the stands that specialize in exotica like sheep's head or snails (you slurp them from a cup). Sadly, no beer is on offer at any of the stalls.

On the sidelines of the Jemaa el-Fna is Ice Legend (52 ave. Bab Agnaou), an ice cream shop. It's particularly enticing for the little ones in the group, but adults too will appreciate a scoop of one of the 50 homemade flavors. Café des Épices (75 Rahba Lakdima, place des Épices), in the medina's spice market, is a charming and aromatic spot for breakfast or a glass of hot mint tea. Further down the medina's serpentine alleys is La Terrasse des Épices (Souk Cherifia, Dar el Bacha) in Souk Cherifia. (It's owned by the same guy who owns Café des Épices.) Salads start at just $6.50, and you can bask in the sun on the huge terrace.

There are four upscale restaurants in the Old City that I happily recommend. The stylish Kosybar (47 place des Fer­blantiers, Médina, 011-212/24-38-03-24, entrées from $19), on the place des Ferblantiers, has a mix of Moroccan and continental offerings, as well as inventive cocktails. By day, you can watch huge storks in their nests from the upstairs terrace.

Swanky Le Tanjia (14 Derb J'did Hay Essalam, Médina, 011-212/24-38-38-36, monkfish $14), a restaurant with rose-filled fountains, is nearby. The Sunday brunch is excellent, as is the tender monkfish available at lunch or dinner.

Another chic spot in the Mouassine district is Café Arabe (184 rue el Mouassine, Médina, 011-212/24-42-97-28). This Italian-owned riad (courtyard home) boasts not only a restaurant serving homemade pastas from $9, but also a hip rooftop bar. And in the Kasbah area is Tatchibana (38 Bab Ksiba, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-71-71, sushi plate $20), you can break out of the norm with sushi and other Japanese delicacies. Tatchibana is open only for dinner except on Sunday, when it offers lunch, too.

Some of Marrakech's coolest eating spots are in the newer parts of the city. In Guéliz, Kechmara (3 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-42-25-32) has mid-century modern decor with ever-changing art, and a sunny terrace that's a good choice for breakfast and lunch; the restaurant does a fine mixed grill for $12.

Café du Livre (44 rue Tarik ben Ziyad, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-21-49), also in Guéliz, has free Wi-Fi and a selection of English-language books for you to peruse while ordering coffee, lunch, or an early dinner (entrées from $8). Sushi is served during the evening from Thursday to Saturday, but the café is open only until 9 p.m.

And the colonial atmosphere at Grand Café de la Poste (blvd. el Mansour Eddahbi at ave. Imam Malik, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-30-38) provides a nice backdrop for excellent salads, starting at $10, as well as hot meals. Enjoy a Casablanca beer on the covered veranda.

In the majorly upscale category is Le Bis-Jardin des Arts (6-7 rue Sakia el Hamra, Semlalia, 011-212/24-44-66-34), a new restaurant with gorgeous decor. The delicious entrées start at $17. For other überglamorous experiences, hop in a car and head to the city's outskirts. Restaurant L'Abbysin (Km 4, rte. de Fes, 011-212/24-32-85-84, entrées from $19) is at the stunning Palais Rhoul, a luxurious palace hotel. The sleek, white outdoor venue is photo-shoot worthy, even if the nouvelle cuisine is more passable than memorable.

The Crystal Restaurant Lounge (blvd. Mohamed VI, Zone Hôtelière de l'Aguedal, 011-212/24-38-84-00, entrées from $10), in the trendy Pacha complex, has artful food arrangements almost too pretty to eat. Make reservations for Friday or Saturday night to listen to jazz.

SHOP

To my husband's dismay, I'm a decidedly enthusiastic shopper. And luckily--for me, anyway--Marrakech is known for its amazing shopping.

Cradled within the medina's high fortresslike walls are the traditional markets, or souks. The majority of the souks are located to the north of the Jemaa el-Fna square. Picture a winding labyrinth with hundreds of shoebox-size stores overflowing with ornate lanterns, embroidered caftans, hammered teapots, leather poufs (a kind of ottoman that can also be made with carpet or fabric), and so much more. There's a method to the madness, as the souks are divided into areas of specialty, including metalwork, slippers, carpets, spices, and so on.

Bargaining is the name of the game, and despite what vendors say, they do have different prices for tourists and locals. Start by offering one third of the vendor's price (offer even less for carpets), and then gradually work your way to a happy compromise.

For the best prices, skip the shops on the outskirts of the Jemaa el-Fna and venture into the heart of the souks. Make a pit stop at the place des Ferblantiers to visit Najib La Joie (44 place des Ferblantiers, Médina, 011-212/41-19-09-50). You can get tiny lanterns with panes of colored glass for $3 or less; they're so cheap, it's practically criminal not to buy several. For jersey caftans starting at $120--and gorgeous vintage ones--try Kasbek (216 rue Riad Zitoun J'did, Médina, 011-212/63-77-56-90). They're perfect for when you host a Moroccan dinner party.

In the Mouassine district, Cadeaux Berberes (31 Moissine, Médina, 011-212/64-01-32-20) has some fantastic Moroccan pottery at prices so fair that wholesalers shop there. Take a look at the painted pottery sinks for around $30. Down the road, on the wall of the Mouassine Mosque, you'll find a make­shift gallery of black-and-white photography. You can pick up a copy of a wonderful photo of old Morocco for about $10.

If you're interested in Moroccan carpets, Bazar Jouti (28 Souk des Tapis, 011-212/66-08-89-80), in the carpet souk, has a very nice selection. Offer a quarter of the price listed on the tag, and let the bargaining begin! Miloud Art Gallery (Souk Cheratine, Talaa 48, Médina, 011-212/24-42-67-16), in Souk Cheratine, has a well-edited collection of poufs, pillows, clothes, lanterns, and bags. I'll say it again: Bargain!

Most of the shops at the Ensemble Artisanal, in the Kasbah district, aren't worth your time. Maison du Cuivre (Ensemble Artisanal, ave. Mohamed V, Kasbah, 011-212/61-50-98-24) is an exception, with its fine lanterns, mirrors, and bowls.

Also in the Kasbah is Light Gallery (2 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-45-65), which has a reliably hip collection of art.

On Thursday and Sunday mornings, you'll find Bab el Khemis market at the gate of the same name. Amid the broken clocks and TV remote controls are genuine treasures, such as vintage teapots and tea trays. I've been known to scout there for The Peacock Nest.

In the New City, the shopping is less atmospheric, but there are fewer hassles, as fixed prices are the norm. Elbow your way through the throngs who come to buy designer-inspired leather shoes at Atika Boutique (34 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-64-09). The $70 pebble-soled driving loafers are particularly coveted. And although the stylish leather goods at Place Vendôme (141 ave. Mohamed V, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-52-63), a well-known shop in Guéliz, aren't as cheap as they are at the souks, the quality is significantly better.

Maison Rouge Décoration (6 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-44-81-30) is a Belgian-run shop with streamlined North African designs. The linens and painted glass plates are pricey but worth a look.

About 10 minutes out of the city center is the industrial zone, Sidi Ghanem. Akkal (322 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem, 011-212/24-33-59-38) stocks minimalist pottery in striking colors and shapes. To rock the casbah back home, pay a visit to Maison Méditerranéenne (230 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem, 011-212/24-33-60-00), a showroom with everything from ornately carved beds to armchairs that cost less than $150.

Go to award-winning Zid Zid Kids (338 BI. 71, Unit 2, Daoudiate, 011-212/63-47-72-92, by appointment only), in the Daoudiate district, for embroidered animal-shaped pillows and other perfectly crafted children's stuff. Prices at this, the warehouse, are far less than what you'd pay at fancy stores back home in the U.S.

PLAY

When we first moved here, my husband would throw open the curtains every morning and say jokingly, "Another lousy day." It's almost always sunny and, with the exception of July (hot) and August (scorching), there's never a bad time to visit. Not surprisingly, outdoor activities abound, day and night.

I always recommend that people take a calèche--a horse and buggy--for a trip around the medina walls. A one-hour ride for up to four people should run less than $20; the calèche operators tend to be found between Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa el-Fna, across from the Club Med.

For those who want more adrenaline-pumping entertainment--or to work off residual work frustrations--go-karting and quad biking are readily available in the surrounding desert. Dunes & Désert Exploration (Hôtel Club Palmariva, Km 6, rte. de Fes, 011-212/61-24-69-48, quad biking $89) is the group to bring out your inner speed demon. And no North African trip is complete without a camel ride. Book one through Dunes & Désert, or look for a guide near La Palmeraie, on the city's eastern side. A two-hour ride with tea in a village costs $30 or so.
If your idea of vacation is lounging by the pool with a cocktail in hand, La Plage Rouge (Km 10, rte. de L'Ourika, 011-212/24-37-80-86), approximately five miles outside the city, is going to be your idea of heaven. The dramatic pool complex with restaurant and bar has a $26 entrance fee, but you might just spot a movie star or a model.

Marrakech is filled with palm groves and gardens. Named after Jacques Majorelle, the artist who created it, the Jardin Majorelle (ave. Yacoub el Mansour, Guéliz, 011-212/24-30-18-52, $4)was later bought by Yves Saint Laurent. With more than 350 types of plants, the small but exquisite garden is a cool respite from the excitement and bustle of the city.

The gardens around Koutoubia Mosque are also a lovely (and free) place for an afternoon stroll.

If lounging by the pool and walking in gardens leaves you insufficiently relaxed, you may require some spa time. At one of the many hammams, or steam baths, around the city, you can literally be steeped in Moroccan tradition. Les Bains de Marrakech (2 Derb Sedra, Bab Agnaou, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-14-28) is one of the most picturesque. Luxuriate in a hammam for 45 minutes for $20, or have a 60-minute massage with rose-petal oil for $45. Afterward, loll for a while on the daybeds in the gorgeous central courtyard and you will never want to leave.

When the sun goes down, no place says Marrakech like the city's main square, Jemaa el-Fna. It's teeming with life, including an unusual cast of characters who are guaranteed to amaze. Herbalists promise to cure ills with potions made from dried lizards and other strange ingredients. Snake charmers lure sleepy cobras out of baskets. Traditional dentists armed with enormous pliers deal with troublesome molars on the spot. Veiled henna artists paint hands or feet in intricate patterns for the price of a Big Mac. Fortune-tellers read tarot cards. The carnivalesque atmosphere intensifies as the night goes on, with impromptu performances by acrobats, cross-dressing dancers, and trance-inducing musicians. Come with plenty of change in your pocket, as you'll be expected to contribute small amounts to enjoy the shows or take pictures.

Anyone craving still more exotica should make a trip to Chez Ali (La Palmeraie, 011-212/24-30-77-30, show without dinner $13). Although the show, held outside and featuring dozens of performers, is a bit cheesy, the singing and dancing will give you a good feeling for traditional Moroccan culture, and the horsemanship is spectacular. (Save some money by skipping the dinner and just going for the show.)