It might be notorious for its late-night party scene, swanky beach hotels with steeply priced drinks and the beachgoers who wear barely-there $300 swimsuits, but vacationing Miami-style doesn't have to cost a fortune.
From $3 beers to staying at a hostel for $34 a night to $7 bike rides along the Florida Everglades, visitors looking for deals have lots of options in the area.
Lodging
If you're adventurous and on a tight budget, consider staying in a hostel. Rooms can house anywhere between three and 14 travelers, sleeping on bunk beds, from $18 a night per person to about $40, depending on season and room size. Hostels in Miami Beach include Tropics Hotel & Hostel (1550 Collins Ave.), Jazz on South Beach Hostel (321 Collins Ave.), and South Beach Hostel (235 Washington Ave.).
For more conventional lodging, research your hotel at the one-stop shopping Web site http://www.miamihotels.com. Book a room while looking for nearby attractions, beaches and events.
Miami Beach
The Lincoln Road pedestrian mall is perfect for strolls and people-watching. You'll find dozens of restaurants and shops, along with locals walking dogs or weaving through the crowds on roller blades.
For a quick bite, check out Pizza Rustica (667 Lincoln Road, other locations on Washington Avenue), where you can get a huge slice of gourmet pizza for about $5. This is also a great spot for club-goers looking for something to fill their stomachs after a few drinks since it's open from 11 a.m. until 3 or 4 a.m.
At 625 Lincoln Road is a hidden gem popular with the locals. Snuggled between two stores is the narrow, tiny bar called Zeke's Roadhouse, which boasts more than 80 bottled beers and drafts from around the world -- each just $3. No hard alcohol is sold here, and no outside food or drinks are allowed on the premises. Keep your ID handy since bartenders check it with each purchase. No ID, no beer.
If you prefer to spend your time on the sand, the beach is walking distance (and free, unless you rent the pricey beach chairs). On your stroll, check out the Art Deco architecture and ritzy hotels. Or snap some pictures at the Casa Casuarina mansion where fashion designer Gianni Versace once lived, now a luxury hotel at 1116 Ocean Drive.
A drink at a trendy hotel bar on the beach -- the Delano, Setai, Shore Club, Gansevoort -- can cost up to $15, but you might just run into a celebrity. Owen Wilson was spotted at the Delano while filming "Marley & Me" with Jennifer Aniston. She reportedly spent time at the Mandarin Oriental.
Many restaurants in South Beach and other touristy areas automatically add a tip (usually 15-18 percent) to the bill.
Art and gardens
The Miami Art Museum (101 W. Flagler St.) has a unique collection of different cultural traditions of South Florida. Adults pay $8, seniors $4, free for children under 12 and students with ID; free to all on the second Saturday of each month. Also on second Saturdays, local galleries and studios in the Wynwood Art District offer free wine (or beer) on a gallery walk, 7-10 p.m. The Wynwood galleries are open other days as well.
A short cab ride away, in the heart of Miami about a mile from downtown, is Vizcaya Museum & Gardens (3251 S. Miami Ave.) built by agricultural industrialist James Deering in 1916. The landmark property includes a main house filled with treasures from around the world, a walkway lined with fountains and foliage, 10 acres of formal gardens and a hardwood hammock overlooking Biscayne Bay. Admission for adults is $12; children 6-12, $5; ages 5 and younger free.
Not far away, in the Miami suburb of Coral Gables, is the Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden
(10901 Old Cutler Road) with an extensive collection of rare tropical plants. Stop by its verandah restaurant or garden cafe, or spend the afternoon drinking tea here. Adults pay $20; seniors $15; children 6-17, $10. Admission is pay as you wish on the first Wednesday of each month.
Entertainment and food
Transit Lounge in the downtown area (729 SW First Ave.) hosts several local bands during the week that play Latin and funk music. A drink is around $6; open late (5 a.m.). If you get tired of dancing, sit along the walls adorned with paintings done by local artists and play that favorite game from childhood, Connect Four.
Calle Ocho, or Eighth Street, hosts Viernes Culturales or Cultural Fridays the last Friday of every month. The art and street festival spans four blocks lined with more than a dozen galleries, restaurants blasting Latin music and cigar shops -- some offering free drinks and appetizers. Stages are set up for live music. Organizers say the Latin festival attracts over 10,000 people to the heart of Little Havana. Dancing and cigar smoking is encouraged.
While on Calle Ocho, don't miss the Cuban food and coffee at Little Havana's famed Versailles Restaurant (3555 SW Eighth St.) a required stop for vote-seeking politicians -- including, most recently, Republican presidential contenders Rudy Giuliani and Mike Huckabee.
Nature
The best way to see South Florida's alligator-infested waters is riding an airboat through the Everglades. Everglades Alligator Farm is about 35 miles south of Miami in Homestead, while Everglades Safari Park is about 15 miles west on the Tamiami Trail. Both places offer a chance to experience Florida's river of grass up close. You can even take a picture holding a baby alligator or watch an alligator show. The adventure, airboat and all, costs about $23 for adults, $15 or less for children. Both Web sites offer printable discount coupons.
Also in Homestead, Shark Valley Tram Tours rents bikes for $6.50 an hour. A 15-mile nature trail through the northern region of Everglades National Park takes two to three hours. If you'd rather rest your feet, a two-hour guided tram ride with wildlife viewing and a stop at the Shark Valley observation tower for a panoramic view of the Everglades costs $15.25 ($9.25 for ages 3-12). (Access to Shark Valley was limited in early October due to flooding, with tram tours suspended and bike routes limited, so check on conditions before you plan a trip there.)
The fee for car entry to Everglades National Park is $10, good for seven consecutive days, or $5 per person on foot, bike or motorcycle.
Transportation
Miami lacks comprehensive public transportation, but there are economical ways to get around. You can't miss the big blue Super Shuttle vans from the airport to the beach and Miami hotels, $20 plus tip. The Tri-Rail is a convenient, affordable way to navigate the region, with stops including area airports, Fort Lauderdale, Delray Beach, Boca Raton and West Palm Beach. One-way fares are $2-$5.50, all-day $4 weekend fare.
Taxis are widely available if you prefer not to rent a car. A ride from the airport to the beach can cost about $30-35.
2008/10/17
Copenhagen: A local's view
Tim, 33, is a Canadian who moved to Copenhagen in 2000 to study at Copenhagen Business School. He has been working full-time in Copenhagen since 2004, currently as a journalist for a bank. He also produces "The Copenhagen Report", a blog about the city.
- Copenhagen was recently voted the world's best city to live in -- what's your opinion?
It's absolutely true! Of course, it's somewhat subjective. For somebody who puts a high value on surrounding themselves with friends and colleagues who generally have a very outward, international perspective, desires a high degree of organization in both their business and personal life, likes being close to the sea, prefers biking to driving, and perhaps has one or two children but still wants to live in the city, then the high ranking of Copenhagen makes perfect sense.
- Is there anything you especially like or dislike about Copenhagen?
As a northern city, it's a bit too cold and cloudy for my preference and the city is a bit quiet during the first part of the week, which changes from Thursday onwards.
As for the positives, Copenhagen is generally a very liberal place, which reveals itself in interesting ways. It's not a politically correct city, which is a relief to me. I don't mind a bit of graffiti from time to time or hearing a bit of noise on the streets at night. I love that people can have noisy parties until very late into the night. People generally respect this freedom by not abusing it.
The city has an enormous capacity to surprise. Copenhagen stages exceptional annual music festivals, such as the Distortion Festival, and excellent independent film festivals, public events like free cinema in the park in the summer, and so on.
- How would you describe Copenhageners' attitude to life?
I would say Danes' ability and willingness to socialize is probably quite underrated. It's not something that is visible at first glance as it's often done in a distinctly Danish way. Some think that just because Danes aren't Latin or Mediterranean in their way of being that they are closed people. I would disagree.
Copenhageners manage to find a balance between their personal and work lives and they know how to make the city part of their life -- how to 'use' the city. Go around the city on a hot summer day to get an idea of how this works.
- The political climate in Denmark has moved to the right in recent years -- is that something that's noticeable in Copenhagen?
If a person spent several years in Denmark without really reading the newspapers or listening to the news, I have my doubts that this shift is something that would be easy to detect.
In many respects, Copenhagen has opened up, in spite of this apparent political shift to the right. There are far more foreigners working in Copenhagen than ever before, a result of more and more companies employing foreigners and even making their official business language English.
The right-wing definition of 'Danishness' is something that relatively few Copenhageners can relate to and voting patterns in Copenhagen bear this out. It's really the right-wingers who need to be integrated into Danish society.
- Could you describe a typical Copenhagener's weekend?
The weather has an enormous impact, far more so than in many other cities in other countries. One reason is the short shopping hours; on Saturday afternoons downtown shops close at 5 p.m. and the other shops close at 2 p.m. Shops are closed all day on Sundays, except on the first Sunday of the month.
On Sunday, if the weather is cloudy, rainy or cold, the possibilities for getting out are limited during the day. Of course, Sunday brunch at a café is popular.
In the evening it's a different story. Copenhagen is buzzing until the early hours of the morning. You can get a drink at plenty of places until 5 a.m. and even then there are a few after-hours places to go to. Not that I would necessarily recommend the after-hours experience!
Just as many people light candles, invite friends over and talk and drink until equally late.
- It's a pricey city -- is it possible to visit on a budget?
It's not impossible. Of course, the better the weather, the easier it is. The main budget-killers for tourists are eating and sleeping. To do this cheaply, creativity is required (and probably sleeping in a hostel).
It's easy to cover Copenhagen on foot (if you don't want to rent a bike). The famous Danish open-faced sandwiches ("smørrebrød") are cheap and widely available -- just be sure to pick one of the nondescript places where the locals go. And you can always buy a cheap cold beer or two from a supermarket when you get tired of walking, then sit in Nyhavn alongside the tourists drinking expensive beers, or in a park.
Alternatively, dark and dingy Danish bodegas are found everywhere in the city and they are an authentic experience and always serve cheap beer. They are filled with down-to-earth locals who, in spite of the cold stare you may receive upon entering, will inevitably prove friendly. When you're stumbling home, grab a cheap late-night "poelser" (hot dog) or falafel, just as the locals do.
There are plenty of interesting sites to see without opening your wallet. My recommendations would be Christiania, the swimming area at Islands Brygge (where you can take a dip in the cool, clean salt-water of the Copenhagen channel), or rent a bike and head north along the coast towards the beaches in Klampenborg and beyond, while looking at the magnificent houses along the way.
And for the cost of a cheap public transport ticket you can ride the harbor boat-bus around the entire channel and see the same sites as the tourist boats (and even hop off and on along the way).
- If Copenhagen was a person, what would she or he be like?
A hipster with a few tattoos -- no question about it! And they would be the coolest person in the place. London or Paris (as people) would certainly think they were coolest and they would most certainly try to act it.
But that moment when they were standing outside trying to hail a cab to get home (probably around midnight or 1 a.m.), as Copenhagen cycled by them with friends on the way to the next watering hole -- well, the façade of London or Paris as 'coolest' would be revealed for what it is.
- Copenhagen was recently voted the world's best city to live in -- what's your opinion?
It's absolutely true! Of course, it's somewhat subjective. For somebody who puts a high value on surrounding themselves with friends and colleagues who generally have a very outward, international perspective, desires a high degree of organization in both their business and personal life, likes being close to the sea, prefers biking to driving, and perhaps has one or two children but still wants to live in the city, then the high ranking of Copenhagen makes perfect sense.
- Is there anything you especially like or dislike about Copenhagen?
As a northern city, it's a bit too cold and cloudy for my preference and the city is a bit quiet during the first part of the week, which changes from Thursday onwards.
As for the positives, Copenhagen is generally a very liberal place, which reveals itself in interesting ways. It's not a politically correct city, which is a relief to me. I don't mind a bit of graffiti from time to time or hearing a bit of noise on the streets at night. I love that people can have noisy parties until very late into the night. People generally respect this freedom by not abusing it.
The city has an enormous capacity to surprise. Copenhagen stages exceptional annual music festivals, such as the Distortion Festival, and excellent independent film festivals, public events like free cinema in the park in the summer, and so on.
- How would you describe Copenhageners' attitude to life?
I would say Danes' ability and willingness to socialize is probably quite underrated. It's not something that is visible at first glance as it's often done in a distinctly Danish way. Some think that just because Danes aren't Latin or Mediterranean in their way of being that they are closed people. I would disagree.
Copenhageners manage to find a balance between their personal and work lives and they know how to make the city part of their life -- how to 'use' the city. Go around the city on a hot summer day to get an idea of how this works.
- The political climate in Denmark has moved to the right in recent years -- is that something that's noticeable in Copenhagen?
If a person spent several years in Denmark without really reading the newspapers or listening to the news, I have my doubts that this shift is something that would be easy to detect.
In many respects, Copenhagen has opened up, in spite of this apparent political shift to the right. There are far more foreigners working in Copenhagen than ever before, a result of more and more companies employing foreigners and even making their official business language English.
The right-wing definition of 'Danishness' is something that relatively few Copenhageners can relate to and voting patterns in Copenhagen bear this out. It's really the right-wingers who need to be integrated into Danish society.
- Could you describe a typical Copenhagener's weekend?
The weather has an enormous impact, far more so than in many other cities in other countries. One reason is the short shopping hours; on Saturday afternoons downtown shops close at 5 p.m. and the other shops close at 2 p.m. Shops are closed all day on Sundays, except on the first Sunday of the month.
On Sunday, if the weather is cloudy, rainy or cold, the possibilities for getting out are limited during the day. Of course, Sunday brunch at a café is popular.
In the evening it's a different story. Copenhagen is buzzing until the early hours of the morning. You can get a drink at plenty of places until 5 a.m. and even then there are a few after-hours places to go to. Not that I would necessarily recommend the after-hours experience!
Just as many people light candles, invite friends over and talk and drink until equally late.
- It's a pricey city -- is it possible to visit on a budget?
It's not impossible. Of course, the better the weather, the easier it is. The main budget-killers for tourists are eating and sleeping. To do this cheaply, creativity is required (and probably sleeping in a hostel).
It's easy to cover Copenhagen on foot (if you don't want to rent a bike). The famous Danish open-faced sandwiches ("smørrebrød") are cheap and widely available -- just be sure to pick one of the nondescript places where the locals go. And you can always buy a cheap cold beer or two from a supermarket when you get tired of walking, then sit in Nyhavn alongside the tourists drinking expensive beers, or in a park.
Alternatively, dark and dingy Danish bodegas are found everywhere in the city and they are an authentic experience and always serve cheap beer. They are filled with down-to-earth locals who, in spite of the cold stare you may receive upon entering, will inevitably prove friendly. When you're stumbling home, grab a cheap late-night "poelser" (hot dog) or falafel, just as the locals do.
There are plenty of interesting sites to see without opening your wallet. My recommendations would be Christiania, the swimming area at Islands Brygge (where you can take a dip in the cool, clean salt-water of the Copenhagen channel), or rent a bike and head north along the coast towards the beaches in Klampenborg and beyond, while looking at the magnificent houses along the way.
And for the cost of a cheap public transport ticket you can ride the harbor boat-bus around the entire channel and see the same sites as the tourist boats (and even hop off and on along the way).
- If Copenhagen was a person, what would she or he be like?
A hipster with a few tattoos -- no question about it! And they would be the coolest person in the place. London or Paris (as people) would certainly think they were coolest and they would most certainly try to act it.
But that moment when they were standing outside trying to hail a cab to get home (probably around midnight or 1 a.m.), as Copenhagen cycled by them with friends on the way to the next watering hole -- well, the façade of London or Paris as 'coolest' would be revealed for what it is.
2008/10/16
Copenhagen: A seasonal guide
Roskilde Festival (July)
The Danes love the outdoors and they love rock music; the Roskilde Festival is where they combine these passions for a weekend of drunken revelry.
The four-day event is held about 30 minutes from the city proper, which means you can either go in for the full festival experience -- smelly toilets and all -- by pitching a tent alongside 70,000 other party monsters, or you can fake it by staying in the city and commuting to the festival each day.
There are also day tickets if you don't have the stamina for the whole shebang.
Kulturnatten (October)
For something a little more high brow there's the Night of Culture. For one night only some 300 venues in the city stage theater performances, art exhibitions, concerts and poetry readings.
Copenhagen Jazz Festival (July)
A world away from the mud and moshing of Roskilde, the city's largest festival consists of more than 450 performances, many of them free, covering everything from hard bop to fusion. Goatees are optional.
Copenhagen Summerdance (August)
Each August some of the finest dance companies and choreographers in Scandinavia perform al fresco in the courtyard of the stately Copenhagen Police Headquarters. Dance enthusiasts should also try to catch the annual free outdoor performance given by the Royal Danish Ballet at the Kastellet fortification.
Father Christmas Congress (July)
One of the more bizarre fixtures in Copenhagen's calendar, the event is held in July -- presumably the slow season for Santas -- at the Bakken amusement park, some 20 minutes north of the city. The climax of the event is a procession of Santas from all over the world along Strøget, accompanied by their ever-faithful Christmas elves. Parents should be prepared for some awkward questions from the kids.
Tivoli Gardens (November/December)
These pleasure gardens make for a great day out any time of the year but to see them at their most bewitching, visit from mid-November through December, when they are transformed into a fairy tale of lanterns and Christmas markets. There's also outdoor skating, a Christmas cabaret and the very Danish 'Nissekøbing' village, home to more than 100 mechanical pixies. Hans Christian Andersen would have approved.
The Danes love the outdoors and they love rock music; the Roskilde Festival is where they combine these passions for a weekend of drunken revelry.
The four-day event is held about 30 minutes from the city proper, which means you can either go in for the full festival experience -- smelly toilets and all -- by pitching a tent alongside 70,000 other party monsters, or you can fake it by staying in the city and commuting to the festival each day.
There are also day tickets if you don't have the stamina for the whole shebang.
Kulturnatten (October)
For something a little more high brow there's the Night of Culture. For one night only some 300 venues in the city stage theater performances, art exhibitions, concerts and poetry readings.
Copenhagen Jazz Festival (July)
A world away from the mud and moshing of Roskilde, the city's largest festival consists of more than 450 performances, many of them free, covering everything from hard bop to fusion. Goatees are optional.
Copenhagen Summerdance (August)
Each August some of the finest dance companies and choreographers in Scandinavia perform al fresco in the courtyard of the stately Copenhagen Police Headquarters. Dance enthusiasts should also try to catch the annual free outdoor performance given by the Royal Danish Ballet at the Kastellet fortification.
Father Christmas Congress (July)
One of the more bizarre fixtures in Copenhagen's calendar, the event is held in July -- presumably the slow season for Santas -- at the Bakken amusement park, some 20 minutes north of the city. The climax of the event is a procession of Santas from all over the world along Strøget, accompanied by their ever-faithful Christmas elves. Parents should be prepared for some awkward questions from the kids.
Tivoli Gardens (November/December)
These pleasure gardens make for a great day out any time of the year but to see them at their most bewitching, visit from mid-November through December, when they are transformed into a fairy tale of lanterns and Christmas markets. There's also outdoor skating, a Christmas cabaret and the very Danish 'Nissekøbing' village, home to more than 100 mechanical pixies. Hans Christian Andersen would have approved.
Copenhagen: Insider tips
Trump card
The Copenhagen Card entitles you to free use of the city's train, bus and metro systems, as well as free admission to 60 museums and attractions. There are two versions, valid for either for either 24 hours (199 DKR) or 72 hours (429 DKR), which you can buy at tourist offices, train stations and some hotels
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Make your way some 40km north of the city to this fascinating museum -- it's well worth the effort. Set in a beautiful sculpture park in the coastal village of Humlebaek, Louisiana is a beguiling combination of nature, architecture and contemporary art.
On the up
Check out the district of Nørrebro for a taste of the 'other side' of Copenhagen. Slightly grungy, defiantly hip and definitely up-and-coming, this area has had its share of social problems, but it also has an undeniable energy and is increasingly popular with Copenhagen's young-and-trendy set.
Pass the Post
The Copenhagen Post is a weekly English-language paper, available from train stations and newsstands. It comes with the 16-page "In & Out Guide," which has complete entertainment listings and is worth the cover price by itself.
Route canal
Take a load off and let a canal boat take the strain as it meanders through Copenhagen's waterways. DFDS Canal Tours offers one-hour guided tours from Nyhaven and Gammel Strand, as well as a water bus service that allows you to board and disembark at any of its 16 stops.
Free museums
Two of the city's finest cultural treasures, the Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery) and The National Museum don't charge for admission. A number of Copenhagen's museums and galleries offer free entry on Wednesdays, including the excellent Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket.
The Copenhagen Card entitles you to free use of the city's train, bus and metro systems, as well as free admission to 60 museums and attractions. There are two versions, valid for either for either 24 hours (199 DKR) or 72 hours (429 DKR), which you can buy at tourist offices, train stations and some hotels
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Make your way some 40km north of the city to this fascinating museum -- it's well worth the effort. Set in a beautiful sculpture park in the coastal village of Humlebaek, Louisiana is a beguiling combination of nature, architecture and contemporary art.
On the up
Check out the district of Nørrebro for a taste of the 'other side' of Copenhagen. Slightly grungy, defiantly hip and definitely up-and-coming, this area has had its share of social problems, but it also has an undeniable energy and is increasingly popular with Copenhagen's young-and-trendy set.
Pass the Post
The Copenhagen Post is a weekly English-language paper, available from train stations and newsstands. It comes with the 16-page "In & Out Guide," which has complete entertainment listings and is worth the cover price by itself.
Route canal
Take a load off and let a canal boat take the strain as it meanders through Copenhagen's waterways. DFDS Canal Tours offers one-hour guided tours from Nyhaven and Gammel Strand, as well as a water bus service that allows you to board and disembark at any of its 16 stops.
Free museums
Two of the city's finest cultural treasures, the Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery) and The National Museum don't charge for admission. A number of Copenhagen's museums and galleries offer free entry on Wednesdays, including the excellent Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket.
Copenhagen: Where to shop
For a city of its size, Copenhagen has a remarkable range of shops that ooze class and individuality.
The city's main shopping hub is Strøget, a collection of pedestrianized streets that lead from Rådhuspladsen to Kongens Nytorv; you can easily spend hours, and a small fortune, browsing its boutiques and chain stores.
Don't miss Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10), with its four floors of contemporary Scandinavian design. Once you've got a taste for stylish home accessories, make your way to Normann Copenhagen (Strandboulevarden 98) or Hay Cph (Pilestraede 29-31) for a masterclass in simplicity and elegance.
When you've finished kitting out the house you might want to work on your wardrobe. Kronprinsensgade is full of hip boutiques, among them Bruuns Bazaar (Kronprinsensgade 8-9), with its collection from the ever-so-trendy, and suitably pricey, Bruuns label. Nearby, Designers Remix (Pilestraede 8) offers sophisticated styles for women, while Könrøg (Hyskenstræde 11) has cutting-edge fashions from a collective of Danish designers.
For something more traditional, but no less beautiful, head to the Georg Jensen store in Amagertorv, for silverware that ranges from intricate jewelry to timeless tableware. If that's not exclusive enough for you, Peter Hertz in Købmagergade is jeweler to Danish royalty.
Pick up something for the kids at Aniel (Frederiksberg Allé 70), which has too-cute baby grows, children's clothes and wooden toys made from organic and natural materials. Frydendahl (Store Regnegade 1) has some unusual hand-knitted toys among the selection of homeware strewn along the pavement outside.
If your eyes are bigger than your wallet, then you might be interested in the flea market held on Saturdays in Israels Plads, where high-street stores are said to unload the goodies they can't sell in their shops. If it's raining you might prefer Det Blå Pakhus (113 Holmbladsgade), the city's biggest indoor flea market and a treasure trove of bargains begging to be hunted.
The city's main shopping hub is Strøget, a collection of pedestrianized streets that lead from Rådhuspladsen to Kongens Nytorv; you can easily spend hours, and a small fortune, browsing its boutiques and chain stores.
Don't miss Illums Bolighus (Amagertorv 10), with its four floors of contemporary Scandinavian design. Once you've got a taste for stylish home accessories, make your way to Normann Copenhagen (Strandboulevarden 98) or Hay Cph (Pilestraede 29-31) for a masterclass in simplicity and elegance.
When you've finished kitting out the house you might want to work on your wardrobe. Kronprinsensgade is full of hip boutiques, among them Bruuns Bazaar (Kronprinsensgade 8-9), with its collection from the ever-so-trendy, and suitably pricey, Bruuns label. Nearby, Designers Remix (Pilestraede 8) offers sophisticated styles for women, while Könrøg (Hyskenstræde 11) has cutting-edge fashions from a collective of Danish designers.
For something more traditional, but no less beautiful, head to the Georg Jensen store in Amagertorv, for silverware that ranges from intricate jewelry to timeless tableware. If that's not exclusive enough for you, Peter Hertz in Købmagergade is jeweler to Danish royalty.
Pick up something for the kids at Aniel (Frederiksberg Allé 70), which has too-cute baby grows, children's clothes and wooden toys made from organic and natural materials. Frydendahl (Store Regnegade 1) has some unusual hand-knitted toys among the selection of homeware strewn along the pavement outside.
If your eyes are bigger than your wallet, then you might be interested in the flea market held on Saturdays in Israels Plads, where high-street stores are said to unload the goodies they can't sell in their shops. If it's raining you might prefer Det Blå Pakhus (113 Holmbladsgade), the city's biggest indoor flea market and a treasure trove of bargains begging to be hunted.
Copenhagen: Where to Eat
At last count, Copenhagen's restaurants boasted 12 Michelin stars between them, more than anywhere else in Scandinavia.
Noma (Strandgade 93) is unique in that it can claim two of those stars. From a converted waterfront warehouse, chef Rebe Redzepi offers a modern take on Nordic cuisine, scouring Scandinavia for ingredients such as langoustines from the Faeroe Islands, wild salmon from Iceland and musk ox from Greenland -- fantastic served with glazed beetroots, apple and smoked marrow.
Geranium (Kronprinsessegade 13), in the beautiful gardens of Kongens Have, has earned a Michelin star for its biodynamic, organic cuisine, including some imaginative vegetarian dishes -- try the new carrots with elderflower vinegar, sago and white chocolate.
Le Sommelier (Bredgade 63-65) has more than 800 wines and a famous crème brûlée with geranium ice cream, while Café Victor (Ny Østergade 8) is a hip bistro that draws an artsy crowd and the occasional visiting celebrity. It also boasts a fine selection of spirits.
Vegans will find unfussy fare at Den Grønne Kælder (Pilestaede 48) and Restaurant Flow (Gyldenløvesgade 10) dishes up organic vegetarian food in a relaxed setting.
Danes drink more coffee per person than any other nationality, so perhaps it's not so surprising that they have won the world barista championship four times in the last eight years. Klaus Thomsen was 2006 champion and he runs Estate Coffee (Dronning Olgas Vej 30), which slow roasts its own blends, as does Café Europa (Amagertorv 1), run by 2001 champion Martin Hildebrandt.
Café Stelling (Gammel Torv 6) looks stunning with its Arne Jacobsen chairs, tables, bar stools and lamps, while multi-taskers will enjoy Laundromat Café (Elmegade 15), where you can grab a coffee, wash your clothes, and browse through the 4,000 used books that are on sale there.
No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without sampling the Danes' favourite snack, "smørrebrød." The classic 'open sandwich' consists of dense, dark brown rye bread finished with toppings that might include smoked salmon, herring, cheese, egg or shrimp. You can choose from 200 varieties at Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70). The Royal Café (Amagertorv 6) offers a more refined take on the open sandwich, served in sushi-sized portions and eaten in suitably regal surroundings.
Like the Danes themselves, Copenhagen's nightlife is generally relaxed, although not without its surprises.
There's currently a trend for 'hybrid' establishments that are cafés by day, but morph into bars or restaurants in the evening, and feature a dancefloor-filling DJ when night falls. The sophisticated Aura (Rådhusstræde 4) is a restaurant in the week and cocktail bar on Friday and Saturday nights.
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus (Sankt Hans Torv 30) is the epitome of Danish minimalism -- sleek, stylish and flawlessly decked out in Arne Jacobsen furnishings. The breakfasts are good, the brunches are famous and the mojitos are even better, making it an excellent place to start the day or to kick start the night.
While Carlsberg may be Copenhagen's best-known contribution to the noble art of brewing, the city is also home to a handful of micro breweries. Still, if you're determined to stick with the Carlsberg, be sure to try it at Vinstue 90 (Gammel Kongevej 90). Ask for a slow beer and you'll have to wait 15 minutes for a meticulously pulled draft Carlsberg with a huge creamy head; but with fewer bubbles and bags of flavor it's well worth the wait.
Noma (Strandgade 93) is unique in that it can claim two of those stars. From a converted waterfront warehouse, chef Rebe Redzepi offers a modern take on Nordic cuisine, scouring Scandinavia for ingredients such as langoustines from the Faeroe Islands, wild salmon from Iceland and musk ox from Greenland -- fantastic served with glazed beetroots, apple and smoked marrow.
Geranium (Kronprinsessegade 13), in the beautiful gardens of Kongens Have, has earned a Michelin star for its biodynamic, organic cuisine, including some imaginative vegetarian dishes -- try the new carrots with elderflower vinegar, sago and white chocolate.
Le Sommelier (Bredgade 63-65) has more than 800 wines and a famous crème brûlée with geranium ice cream, while Café Victor (Ny Østergade 8) is a hip bistro that draws an artsy crowd and the occasional visiting celebrity. It also boasts a fine selection of spirits.
Vegans will find unfussy fare at Den Grønne Kælder (Pilestaede 48) and Restaurant Flow (Gyldenløvesgade 10) dishes up organic vegetarian food in a relaxed setting.
Danes drink more coffee per person than any other nationality, so perhaps it's not so surprising that they have won the world barista championship four times in the last eight years. Klaus Thomsen was 2006 champion and he runs Estate Coffee (Dronning Olgas Vej 30), which slow roasts its own blends, as does Café Europa (Amagertorv 1), run by 2001 champion Martin Hildebrandt.
Café Stelling (Gammel Torv 6) looks stunning with its Arne Jacobsen chairs, tables, bar stools and lamps, while multi-taskers will enjoy Laundromat Café (Elmegade 15), where you can grab a coffee, wash your clothes, and browse through the 4,000 used books that are on sale there.
No trip to Copenhagen would be complete without sampling the Danes' favourite snack, "smørrebrød." The classic 'open sandwich' consists of dense, dark brown rye bread finished with toppings that might include smoked salmon, herring, cheese, egg or shrimp. You can choose from 200 varieties at Ida Davidsen (Store Kongensgade 70). The Royal Café (Amagertorv 6) offers a more refined take on the open sandwich, served in sushi-sized portions and eaten in suitably regal surroundings.
Like the Danes themselves, Copenhagen's nightlife is generally relaxed, although not without its surprises.
There's currently a trend for 'hybrid' establishments that are cafés by day, but morph into bars or restaurants in the evening, and feature a dancefloor-filling DJ when night falls. The sophisticated Aura (Rådhusstræde 4) is a restaurant in the week and cocktail bar on Friday and Saturday nights.
Pussy Galore's Flying Circus (Sankt Hans Torv 30) is the epitome of Danish minimalism -- sleek, stylish and flawlessly decked out in Arne Jacobsen furnishings. The breakfasts are good, the brunches are famous and the mojitos are even better, making it an excellent place to start the day or to kick start the night.
While Carlsberg may be Copenhagen's best-known contribution to the noble art of brewing, the city is also home to a handful of micro breweries. Still, if you're determined to stick with the Carlsberg, be sure to try it at Vinstue 90 (Gammel Kongevej 90). Ask for a slow beer and you'll have to wait 15 minutes for a meticulously pulled draft Carlsberg with a huge creamy head; but with fewer bubbles and bags of flavor it's well worth the wait.
Copenhagen: What to see
Copenhagen is compact and relatively traffic-free, making it a pleasure to explore on foot. Start your visit Start in Indre By, the bustling and historic heart of the city.
Although often described as the longest pedestrianzed street in Europe, Strøget is actually a series of connected streets. Stroll alongside the locals, checking out the street entertainers and boutiques and try not to let your credit card run away with itself.
Make a detour into the Latin Quarter, with its winding streets and historic buildings. The Rundetaarn (Round Tower -- Købmagergade 52) was built in the 17th century and still functions in its original role as an observatory. A wide, rising corridor leads to the top for a fantastic view of the city.
At the eastern end of Strøget is Kongens Nytorv. This expansive square is home to the Royal Theater and Charlottenborg Palace. Its glass-fronted cafés make an excellent spot to take a breather, but if you can hold out, just off the square is Nyhavn, the colorful facades of its medieval buildings providing the perfect backdrop for its harbor-side cafés.
Take the Knippelsbro bridge across the Inderhavnen (inner harbor) to reach the delightful little island of Christianshavn. Its canals and picture-postcard houses have earned it the moniker of 'Little Amsterdam' and its skyline is dominated by the spiraling black and gold spire of the Vor Frelsers Kirke church (Sankt Annæ Gade).
The island is also home of Christiania, the 'free city' that has been populated since 1971 by a community of various dropouts, artists and hippies. An incongruous mix of former army barracks and colorful, ramshackle homes, the mural-lined dirt streets make an interesting detour from the ordered architecture of Copenhagen proper.
Visible across the Inderhavnen is Amalienborg Slotsplads, a regal square surrounded by the four Amalienborg palaces, the royal family's winter residence. You can watch the changing of the guard each day at noon.
Nearby is Kastellet, a star-shaped fortress that has housed by troops since 1660, and just beyond, on the Langelinie coastline, is the small bronze statue of the Little Mermaid. In reality, this tribute to a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale is somewhat disappointing, but it remains hugely popular and is an inevitable box to tick on any visitor's itinerary.
Rosenborg Slot is a former royal residence surrounded by a moat in the peaceful setting of Kongens Have (The King's Garden), the city's oldest park, and the nearby Botanisk Have (Botanical Gardens) are a pleasant location for a summer stroll.
Copenhagen also has some superb cultural treasures; be sure to visit the Nationalmuseet (Frederiksholms Kanal 12), which includes a fascinating collection of ancient objects that have survived, preserved in Denmark's peat bogs, and a stunning array of Viking artifacts.
The Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery, Sølvgade 48 - 50) has a vast collection representing 700 years of European art, but even more impressive is Ny Carlsberg Glypotek, with its glass-domed Winter Garden, impressive collection of ancient sculpture and a wing devoted to French artists from the 19th and 20th centuries.
End your stay with a trip to Tivoli Gardens. These pricey pleasure gardens in the centre of town may not match bigger amusement parks in terms of thrill rides, but they have bags of charm, fairytale landscaped gardens, a lake, theatres and concert halls. In summer Tivoli stays open until midnight and as dusk falls lanterns twinkle into life and the atmosphere becomes almost magical.
Although often described as the longest pedestrianzed street in Europe, Strøget is actually a series of connected streets. Stroll alongside the locals, checking out the street entertainers and boutiques and try not to let your credit card run away with itself.
Make a detour into the Latin Quarter, with its winding streets and historic buildings. The Rundetaarn (Round Tower -- Købmagergade 52) was built in the 17th century and still functions in its original role as an observatory. A wide, rising corridor leads to the top for a fantastic view of the city.
At the eastern end of Strøget is Kongens Nytorv. This expansive square is home to the Royal Theater and Charlottenborg Palace. Its glass-fronted cafés make an excellent spot to take a breather, but if you can hold out, just off the square is Nyhavn, the colorful facades of its medieval buildings providing the perfect backdrop for its harbor-side cafés.
Take the Knippelsbro bridge across the Inderhavnen (inner harbor) to reach the delightful little island of Christianshavn. Its canals and picture-postcard houses have earned it the moniker of 'Little Amsterdam' and its skyline is dominated by the spiraling black and gold spire of the Vor Frelsers Kirke church (Sankt Annæ Gade).
The island is also home of Christiania, the 'free city' that has been populated since 1971 by a community of various dropouts, artists and hippies. An incongruous mix of former army barracks and colorful, ramshackle homes, the mural-lined dirt streets make an interesting detour from the ordered architecture of Copenhagen proper.
Visible across the Inderhavnen is Amalienborg Slotsplads, a regal square surrounded by the four Amalienborg palaces, the royal family's winter residence. You can watch the changing of the guard each day at noon.
Nearby is Kastellet, a star-shaped fortress that has housed by troops since 1660, and just beyond, on the Langelinie coastline, is the small bronze statue of the Little Mermaid. In reality, this tribute to a Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale is somewhat disappointing, but it remains hugely popular and is an inevitable box to tick on any visitor's itinerary.
Rosenborg Slot is a former royal residence surrounded by a moat in the peaceful setting of Kongens Have (The King's Garden), the city's oldest park, and the nearby Botanisk Have (Botanical Gardens) are a pleasant location for a summer stroll.
Copenhagen also has some superb cultural treasures; be sure to visit the Nationalmuseet (Frederiksholms Kanal 12), which includes a fascinating collection of ancient objects that have survived, preserved in Denmark's peat bogs, and a stunning array of Viking artifacts.
The Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery, Sølvgade 48 - 50) has a vast collection representing 700 years of European art, but even more impressive is Ny Carlsberg Glypotek, with its glass-domed Winter Garden, impressive collection of ancient sculpture and a wing devoted to French artists from the 19th and 20th centuries.
End your stay with a trip to Tivoli Gardens. These pricey pleasure gardens in the centre of town may not match bigger amusement parks in terms of thrill rides, but they have bags of charm, fairytale landscaped gardens, a lake, theatres and concert halls. In summer Tivoli stays open until midnight and as dusk falls lanterns twinkle into life and the atmosphere becomes almost magical.
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